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Followup To
Question -
Hi Brian, I tried out this site for an issue with my "parts truck", a 1993 Dodge Dakota and just looked at vintage cars in curiosity and was surprised to find an E Type expert there! And your approval ratings are superb!
I have a 1963 E type that was stored hastily 20 years ago when I went overseas and hasn't been started since. I recently built a new house with a "real" garage (1100 ft2) and am itching to get the little cat running again once I get thru my "honey-do" list. I am somewhat at a loss for where to start. I am fearful to even turn the engine over without getting bearings & cylinders lubed, etc. Also, how to clean out the carbs, fuel lines, brake lines etc.
Any good suggestions or reference books, articles, videos, etc.
I live in Boise, Idaho if you are close by and want to just stop by for coffee or a beer .....
Thanks ....... Karl
Answer -
Hello Karl, I wish I did live nearby, I'd soon be round for a drink. However, I live on 'the other side of the pond', in the City where Jaguar were built... Coventry!
Ok, let's think of your query... 1963 E type, so it's a Series I, 3.8 litre.
Ideally, it should have been prepared for such a long 'rest', but err, too late for that Karl!
First, I would remove all the spark plugs and determine if the engine will turn over, either by using a spanner on the front engine pulley, OR put car in third gear and gently rock car back and forward.
If the engine is solid... you've got probs... indicating that the likely reason is that the piston rings have rusted and siezed in the cylinder bores. Bad news!
If the engine does turn freely, you are one heck of a lucky so and so! Praise Allah, (or whoever is around), and have a drink to celebrate :-)
Assuming it is solid and will not shift, you can try spraying or pouring say two tablespoons of WD40 or similar rust releasing agent into the plug holes. You will need to leave this to work for several hours/overnight, to have a chance of it working into the rust and breaking the grip. Realise as well, that there are 4 piston rings? per piston, so they may all be affected.
Assuming the engine is free to turn, I would put a little engine oil into each cylinder, so that it will help to lubricate the rings/bore before oil pressure can do the job for you. (THIS is what I would have recommended BEFORE storage).
Disconnect the fuel line to carbs.
Drain or siphon old petrol out of tank. (Drain plug for tank is large plug visible under the left hand side boot floor. It also contains filter mesh).
A good battery should then enable you to use the car ignition (switched ON), to run the electric pump to empty fuel-line and remaining petrol.
I would think that all old petrol would have evaporated from carbs by now, so just remove the bottoms to clear dirt etc.. Spray a little WD40 around linkages and carb internals, (remove air filters etc), through air intakes. Check throttle operation for freedom of sticking and ability to return to 'closed' position.
If you manage to reach this stage, please let me know.
Best wishes,
Brian
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Hi Brian, yes, it would be a fair trip for an on-site inspection! However, I was in your neck of the woods a couple of years ago on vacation to the Cotswolds, wherein my wife and I took a side trip and toured the Jag factory at Coventry & saw the very building and line where both my XKE and our '92 VDP were put together. Most enjoyable and inspiring! If you haven't yet taken that in, I would highly recommend it! The woodworking a leather selection and fitting were sure something you wouldn't see on this side of the pond!
As to my little Cat, I understand the natural fear of rusting since you live in a moist climate, but Idaho is very dry, only 11 inches of precip a year, and the car has always been garaged. No rust evident anywhere! My query concerns not only lubing the piston rings and cylinders, but also the main bearings. Seems I should try to pressurize the oil delivery system and establish a film of thin oil (like WD40) BEFORE trying to turn it over to avoid ruining the bearings as well as the cylinders & rings. Ever tried to pressurize the oil channels w/o turning the engine? I am afraid that I could damage an irreplaceable engine that was previously in very good condition.
How about the seals? Replace right off or test it out? Hard to replace?
As to the fuel, your procedure sounds easier than I feared since I thought the fuel trapped in the lines and carb would be turned into that foul syrup and hardened. If not, drink to that! If so, what do you recommend as the meanest solvent/cleaner for this kind of thing?
Really appreciate your time and don't want to monopolize. Perhaps I can look you up if I get over there on business one of these days. My company may have some work over there somewhere in the next year.
Thanks for any help you can give me. Getting started is always the hardest part!
Karl
AnswerHello Karl, I must apologise for delay in answering your second request. I had read your questions but then accidently deleted the info along with about 70 plus junk emails i have to sort through every day. I knew i would get a reminder as i have today.
Ok, back to the job in hand...
Pressurise the oil system? I haven't used this method exactly, but you can try this.
Remove both rocker covers and the oil feed pipe to ONE of the camshafts.
Using a simple oil pump gun, you should be able to use a rubber washer or similar, to create a tight seal between the oil gun nozzle and the oil pipe union. You will have to work something out yourself here? Maybe fit the banjo bolt and fibre washers, then a nut to clamp bolt gently to give you only one end to seal, i.e. the end that fits into camshaft hole? Hope this makes sense?
By gently pumping oil into the pipe, you shoud be able to fill all the oilways inc. big end, main brg journals.
By looking for oil entering the other camshaft, you should be able to see if the oil is travelling easily. If you can keep some pressure applied for a while, I am sure it will circulate everywhere necessary.
Once you feel satisfied, refit oil pipe and fibre washers.
With plugs removed, crank engine over and look for oil pressure on gauge and oil exiting both camshafts continuosly.
If that happens, I think you can be sure that the oil has circulated through all the oilways, as the cams are last to receive oil from the pump.
Using clean petrol, (a tube from the elec pump into a clean can will do), allow pump to run till it fills carbs..
Refit cam covers and plugs.
Switch IGN on and fire her up, check for oil pressure on gauge.
Let me know how it goes :-)
Best wishes,
Brian
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