QuestionQUESTION: Good morning,
I am having the same problem as the other questioner. I have dual zone heater AC control module. Air only comes out defroster vents, heated mirror button not working or recirc button andno heat. AC compressor does not turn on when defrost or AC is engaged. fuse appears to be good and fan control works. Thanks for your time!
Dan
ANSWER: Hi Dan,
You didn't specify which fuse appears good but my suggestion would be to test fuse 36 in the power box because that one powers the ac/heat module (including the air distribution actuators) and the heated mirror.
The ac compressor may be tied up with that issue, but alternatively it may simply be that the charge of regrigerant in the system is too low to maintain the necessary minimum pressure which will allow the pcm to activate the compressor clutch. So if the fuse 36 repairs the air distribution/mirror situation you would be well-advised to consider putting in some refrigerant into the system using a kit which includes the connection/gauge/refrigerant and costs about $40 to do it yourself.
Please 'rate' my answer (see below).
Thanks,
Roland
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Roland,
Thanks for the quick reply. Yes, I have checked all the fuses and even switched a few of the relays out to no avail. Do you think it is possible that the module itself could be bad or in some way has been partially disconnected due to the fact that the fan control still operates but not the other five controls that reside in the same module. Again, thank you for your time
ANSWER: Hi Dan,
Just in case check fuse 3 which powers the section of the ignition switch (output is on pin 14 of the ignition switch) which then powers fuse 36 in the 'run' position. And then verify that you have 12V on both sides of that 36 fuse in the 'run' position. From fuse 36 the 12V to power the ac/heater 'micro-control' arrives at pin 1 of the 16-pin plug at the rear of the micro-control on a gray/black wire so verify that 12V is there similarly. Also check that pin 2 of that same 'control' plug (black/orange wire) is shown to be shorted to ground as that also would be necessary for the control to work. If you have 12V on pin 1 and a good ground on pin 2 at the micro-control when the ignition switch is in the 'run' position and yet the unit (except for the fan control) is 'out', then the micro-control is indeed bad.
That is the chain of functioning that should allow you to sort this one out.
I would appreciate your giving me a rating and a nomination to be 'volunteer of the month' for both of my answers so far. I am competing for that honor and need every vote I can get.
Thanks,
Roland
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Thanks Roland,
I finally figured out where/how to rate your responses and yes I did recommend you. One last question... is this micro-control on the rear of the module itself? Oh, one other thing...prior to this problem manifesting itself, I had disconnected both batteries to change out the fuel filter...any possible correlation between the two? Your help has been and is greatly appreciated. As we both know, the techs at the dealerships are not always as knowledgeable as they could be not to mention, very expensive! Thanks again for your valuable time!
AnswerHi Dan,
The contol is in the module, but the manual doesn't show an exploded view of it. It has about 6 wires attached to it and appears to be solid state according to the wiring diagram. Just remove the center bezel, then the 2 screws for the control and you can then remove it for access to the plugs. It says that the control module is not repairable if needed it must be replaced.
I don't see a relationship between disconnecting batteries and this problem. But do check the power supply and grounding at the module to verify you have both before assuming that is the issue.
Thanks for the nominations. You can do it once more if you would like. Thanks for the support.
Roland
