Question95 Ford Escort, 132k miles. Was running fine, had ignition switch out of it, had to start with screwdriver.
Installed ignition switch.
Also installed new plugs.
Installed new belt.
Unhooked Battery and Mass Air Sensor while doing repairs, hooked back up when done.
Here is the problem:
After repairs completed, engine starts fine. It will run as long as you want to drive it or let it idle. Once you shut off engine, and try to restart, it starts hard, the "check engine" light comes on, and then it cranks. While running, it has a rough idle, and if throttle is applied it has no power whatsoever, and seems to load up and backfires.
To correct the problem, I disconnect the battery for 5 seconds and re-connect. Engine cranks fine. Runs fine with power, no rough idle or anything. As soon as you shut it off and try to restart it, the same problem reappears.
This cycle can be repeated as many times as I want.
So I install new crankshaft position sensor. Problem remained, so I sent it to mechanic.
Mechanic initially unable to get error code on computer diagnostic reader. Mechanic returns car. Problem remains. Car sent back to mechanic.
Mechanic now says computer diagnostic indicates bad mass air sensor. Mechanic installed new Mass Air Sensor. Mechanic returns car. Problem remains. Car returned to mechanic.
Mechanic didn't believe problem was still there, so after a hard start, he is under the hood, and races the engine, forcing loading and backfiring. Argued with mechanic to knock that off.
Mechanic keeps it for a couple more days, and determines that the car had "jumped time". Mechanic stated that the timing belt and harmonic balancer needed to be replaced because a nut had come loose and "wallered out the middle". New timing belt and harmonic balancer installed. (note, a new timing belt was installed 30k miles ago, so possible that it was not done correctly. Not sure..) Mechanic returns car. Problem remains. Car returned to mechanic.
Mechanic says computer is giving an error on the on/off switch. Mechanic installs new steering column. Mechanic returns car. Problem remains. Mechanic puzzled.
What is my problem, and did the mechanic wreck the timing belt?
AnswerOMG, what a nightmare you must be going through. I don't understand why he didn't pull the codes. Being that your car is a 95, the chance of it being a OBD-1 service port is descent. However, it could be a OBD-2 port that doesn't recognize the OBD-2 format. You see, OBD2 officially started in 1996. The fact that the car doesn't run terrible until after restart says a lot. However, the backfiring and bronco bucking at a high RPM is not acceptable either. Just curious, why did you unhook the M.A.F when doing the initial repairs, not that it matters. One thing has nothing to do with the others. OBD-1 vehicles require a little bit a parts hanging, since the computer does not give as definitive answers. Personally, I wonder about your computer. I would need to have the OBD-1 codes before making an educated guess. Knowing what parts were replaced doesn't ally help much. It is very possible that the mechanic was correct in replacing one of the parts, but got a bad part. If he thinks that the craftsmanship was poor, I take it that it is the same mechanic that did the initial timing belt replacement. I would want them to "Show me", that the bolt "wallered" out. Take pictures for goodness sake. It takes approximately 2-2.5 hours, max!!!! to tear down the timing chain cover(really 90 minutes). I would have to see that, to agree. The evidence would be more than visible, even to an untrained eye. He shouldn't need to go into a complete tear down to show you. Look at it as a two part repair.
