Ford Repair: Clunking or noise in front end, cv joints, chilton manuals


Question
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Followup To
Question -
A friend of mine has a 1998 F 150 4x4.Gradually, when in 4 wheel drive, on the left side of the front diff, you can hear a clunking noise. Something like  steel on steel.The loudest noise comes when the vehicle is turned left or right while in 4 wheel drive. when driven straight, no turning, the noise is not so present. Less persistent in 4 wheel drive. When in 2 wheel drive the noise or clunking sound is NOT present.

I have isolated the sound to the passenger side  axle shaft.( I think). If this is indeed the problem, can this shaft be serviced or does the shaft have to be completely replaced? ( $ ). What is inside those rubber boots? Axel joints?(Maybe)

Thanks
Mike

Answer -
Hello and thanks for the question...I'll try to help.
No the shaft doesn't have to be completely replaced........but you might want to check the local parts stores prices (might be cheaper). The CV joints can be replaced as a seperate unit.
Erik

Thanks Erik

Sorry about the triple posts. Don't know how it happened. Anyway, in your opinion with that kind of noise, is it the axle shaft it self causing the clunking? One  other thing, under the boots is it like the old style u joints or have they changed? Is it a big job to change the joints for a backyarder like myself? Would I need special tools to do this?
He's(neighbour) suposed to buy one of those Haynes or Chilton manuals to see what is what after the wheel is taken off.

Thanks Again
Mike

Answer
Hello and thanks for the reply...I'll try to help.
The axle shaft on the truck nowdays, are of the CV joint style. No longer is it the U-Joint type. What is inside of the boot...is CV joint grease. IF it is damaged, it needs to be replaced......or it will let dirt/road salt/water in and destroy the CV joint again. It isn't THAT difficult, but depending on your ability, it can be a challenge.

REMOVAL
Raise and support the vehicle. WARNING: THE ELECTRICAL POWER TO THE AIR SUSPENSION SYSTEM MUST BE SHUT OFF PRIOR TO HOISTING, JACKING OR TOWING AN AIR SUSPENSION VEHICLE. THIS CAN BE ACCOMPLISHED BY TURNING OFF THE AIR SUSPENSION SWITCH LOCATED IN THE RH KICK PANEL AREA. FAILURE TO DO SO CAN RESULT IN UNEXPECTED INFLATION OR DEFLATION OF THE AIR SPRINGS, WHICH CAN RESULT IN SHIFTING OF THE VEHICLE DURING THESE OPERATIONS.
Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
Remove the hub nut.
Remove and discard the cotter pin.
Remove the retainer.
Remove the hub nut.
Position the front disc brake caliper aside.
Remove the two caliper bolts.
Lift the front disc brake caliper off the front disc brake caliper anchor plate and position aside.
Remove the upper ball joint castle nut.
Remove and discard the cotter pin.
Remove the castle nut.
Using Pitman Arm Puller, separate the front wheel knuckle from the front suspension upper arm.
Remove the six front wheel halfshafts and joint bolts.
Separate the halfshaft assembly from the hub and remove the halfshaft assembly from the vehicle. CAUTION: Use caution to avoid damaging the hub seal when removing the front drive halfshaft.

INSTALLATION
Install the halfshaft, then the six halfshaft bolts.
Install the front disc brake caliper.
Position the front disc brake caliper.
Install the front disc brake caliper bolts.
Install the wheel hub nut.
Install the hub nut.
Install the retainer.
Install a new cotter pin.
Install the front suspension arm upper ball joint castle nut.
Position the front wheel knuckle.
Install the upper ball joint castle nut.
Install a new cotter pin.
NOTE: If equipped with air suspension, reactivate the system by turning on the air suspension switch.

Hope this helps,
Erik