QuestionERIK-THANKS FOR YOUR TIME. My aerostar has had periods where it would quit at each stop sign,e.g.,and this behavior would continue for a whole drive of 15 miles of stop-quit-restart-driving: then this symtom would go away and i have full power and have it really well for days at a time, and then the whole thing would start up again. At its worst the engine would even quit in the middle of aslow curve and I started shifting into neuatral on the automatic to be able to keep up the revs. Today it came back more ferociously, to the point where I can't drive-the engine won't shuts down immediately below what feels like 2500 rpm, as soon as i release the throttle. It feels like a fuel problem but what would you check, what do these symtoms sound like to you? Would a sticking EGR valve have this effect? Is there a way to bypass the EGR.What would happen if I wedged the EGR's plunger open and tried to run the engine? Do you think I can do anything constructive with the carb without removing it(aside from melting it down to a blob of aluminum right on the block)?
AnswerHello and thanks for the question...I'll try to help.
An EGR would not cause this type of problem. If the EGR was "stuck" open--your engine wouldn't start, ever. It would be a HUGE Vac leak. It would also cause the engine to backfire.
What I would try is to look in to the codes of the PCM (Powertrain Control Module). Have a garage do this for you, or borrow a scanner or rent one from a parts store. I think that the codes, if and when you get them, will lead you towards a correct repair of your problem.
What it sounds like to me is a TFI or dura-spark module going bad. It's the ignition module located on the distributor. Gray in color (TFI) and located on the fender (Dura-spark), silver in color. It acts like a set of ignition points, telling the ignition coil when to fire.
You might also wnat to take a look in to the tune-up condition of the vehicle---has it been done lately? Is it correct? Also, check for Vac. leaks.......
I hope this helps,
Erik
