Honda Repair: 1990 hoinda accord ex....starter engaging flex plate spinning but not cranking, blown fuses, hoinda


Question
my car cannot be started right now.. the flywheel is turning but pulleys aren't. i shut off the car myself.. i was wondering if something has to do with the crankshaft being disconnected from the flywheel or torque converter? what do you think?
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yes the car was still running. i shut it off myself. but why would that make my transmission get no power???
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i have a 1990 Honda accord with the 2.2l sohc. i was driving to work and the transmission was not putting out any power to the drives shafts motor was still running. when pulled over, i shut the car off trying to look around to find a problem. when i tried to start the car no luck. Flex plate is turning when trying to start but the pulleys where the belts are not at all... what do you think the problem could be???
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if the car has over 160k miles on it. it could very well be the Igniter in the distributor. these can be costly depending on the application but any local auto parts store carries them. sometimes it is actually cheaper to buy the whole distributor. if your battery is fully charged and your starter is trying to turn over but the actual motor never starts, i almost guaranty this is the problem. i actually replaced my on Thursday because it had the exact same symptoms. i did some research and found out those usually go out on preludes and accords fairly often after 160thousand miles or so.

when you were driving, did your motor shut off by itself or did you turn it off? also check to make sure that your ecu fuse didnt just blow. it will be under the hood. but while you are at it, check the ones underneath the dash for blown fuses too. sometimes when it wont start like that it's  because the wires grounded out. but i would definitely check or just replace the igniter. if you do a little more searching you can find out how to check it with a volt meter to see if you are getting any spark at all an that can narrow down the problem. But if your car is high mileage i would almost bet my life on it that your igniter is bad. very simple to replace. first disconnect the negative terminal of the battery. you need an 8mm socket to remove the  distributer cap, a small Phillips screwdriver to loosen the rotor on the distributer and pull off the dust cover. just unplug the wires from the igniter. there should be detailed instructions on how to install it once you have the old one out in the box for the new one. double check the fuses underneath the hood before starting it again. if that doesn't help, you might have to get the starter tested at a shop or replace the whole distributer. if there is no spark to the engine, that explains why your transmission and starter turn but not the pulleys. hope this helps!


here is a drawn diagram of the wires and the igniter is the thing the wires plug into.
http://z.about.com/d/autorepair/1/0/5/X/42132021.gif

here is an actual photograph of just the igniter:
http://www.qcautoparts.com/images/IM-HD-01.jpg



not sure if this is too confusing but i will through it in for you:


A. Here is the test procedure for accord and prelude igniters:

  1. Remove the distributor cap, the distributor rotor, and the inner cover.

Testing Honda Prelude/accord Ignitors

  2. Disconnect the BLACK/YELLOW, GREEN, YELLOW/GREEN, and BLUE wires from the ICM.
  3. Turn the ignition switch ON. Check for voltage between the BLACK/YELLOW wire and chassis ground. There should be battery voltage.

         * If there is no battery voltage, check the BLACK/YELLOW wire between the Ignition Coil and the ICM.
         * If there is battery voltage, go to step 4.

  4. Turn the ignition switch ON. Check for voltage between the GREEN wire and chassis ground. There should be battery voltage.

         * If there is no battery voltage, check the:
         * Ignition coil.
         * GREEN wire between the ignition coil and the ICM.
         * If there is battery voltage, go to step 5.

  5. Check the YELLOW/GREEN wire between the PGM-IG ECM and the ICM.
  6. Check the BLUE wire between the tachometer and the ICM.
  7. If all tests are normal, replace the ICM.
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if your car can be started right now, but there is no power to the wheel, your cv joint popped out. if you mean your engine turns but wont start, it could be the igniter, distributer, or maybe even the fuel pump. i guess i dont understand what is wrong. is you motor not starting or is your car not going?

Answer
if your car is not starting, it must be something with your electrical system. maybe the spark plugs are bad, the igniter in the distributer is bad, or the motor is just blown, maybe it is locked up from no oil in the motor. check to make sure your fuses aren't blown under the hood and under the steering wheel. it could also be a fuel pump. It has to be either fuel or spark. the crank shaft can not fall off the motor. i guess i dont understand how you know the transmission is turning when the motor isnt.  i would either purchase a Haynes Repair manual and look under the Troubleshooting section or have it towed to a local shop where they can look at it more intensely, and diagnose the problem better than i could without me looking at the vehicle.