Hyundai Repair: Hyundai Accent 2001, hyundai accent 2001, hyundai accent


Question
I have a Hyundai Accent GL 2001 4-dr 1.6L.  Had the transmission replaced under warranty last year after car failed to go in reverse.  The check engine light did not go off after this, and I was told by Hyundai dealer that if I had the timing belt replaced it would go off, which I had done, and the light did not go off.  The day we brought the car home after they replaced the transmission when we got into the driveway the key would not come out of the ignition.  It also came back with horn not working (pretty odd, since it was working just fine before).  A year later this still happens when I pull in to park from a turn and the wheel is not straight, the key gets stuck.  The car shakes above 75/80mph.  When shifting, the gears don't rock smoothly into the correct place (D, R, etc).  I took the car back to Hyundai a few months ago, and they said nothing was wrong with the transmission (not sure if I believe them since my 100,000 warranty is about to be up in 5,000 miles).  I think they mentioned something to do with the fuel (line?) or (emmission something?) as the problem, although I'm not sure how trustworthy they are even though they are a Hyundai dealer.  The codes I get from AutoZone are P1402, P1403, P1529, and P0722.  I'd appreciate your help so much, as I know very, very little about the mechanical workings of cars!  Thank you!

Answer
I'll try and address things as you've listed them.  If I leave something out or you need additional information, please follow-up.

1.  Unless the camshaft is timed incorrectly, replacing the timing belt cannot affect the check engine lamp.

2.  The transmission itself has nothing to do with the difficulty in removing the key from the ignition.  There is a solenoid on the ignition lock for the purpose of releasing the key that's activated by a key lock and control module, which depends on information on a switch on the shift lever to tell it when the shifter is in park.  This shouldn't particularly have anything to do with how the wheels are turned unless it's affecting your ability to put the gearshift fully into park.  Similarly, since the critical input is on the shifter itself, it's unlikely that a transmission replacement has anything to do with this.

3.  The horn is one of the least reliable components of this vehicle.  I've seen numerous failures of the horn itself.  Additionally, none of the work for the transmission replacement occurs in the vicinity of the horn, so it's unlikely there's any relationship.

4.  Vibration at certain speeds is most frequently related to wheel/tire balance issues.  Without being able to feel the vibration and assess its relationship to various conditions, its difficult for me to assess over the internet whether your vibration is potentially causes by such imbalance.

5.  P0722 and P1520 relate to the output speed sensor signal.  There could be a problem with the output speed sensor (one of the pulse generators), but it's more likely your transmission control module (TCM) needs to be reprogrammed.  There's a known issue with your year and model vehicle where induced electrical currents in the vehicle speed sensor circuit confuse the TCM, causing it to misread the vehicle speed and in turn determine the output speed sensor is incorrect when in fact it is not.

6.  P1402 and P1403 relate to an electrical problem with the electrical circuit for the pump used for detecting fuel vapor leaks.

7.  I'm not sure what you mean when you say the shifter doesn't "rock" smoothly into the correct place.  Is it difficult to remove from park?  Is it difficult to put in certain gear positions?  Is there simply a large resistance to movement between any two positions?  Do the detents not line up properly with the indicator?  Does the indicator show a gear different from what's actually selected?