Hyundai Repair: 03 Elantra key intermittingly wont turn to lock, stuck in ignition, elantra wagon, hyundai elantra


Question
QUESTION: I have an '03 Hyundai Elantra wagon. When turning off the ignition, the key very often will not turn to the lock position and release. I can shut the car off, but the key won't turn pass the acc position. Any suggestions on how to fix this problem? Any links to sites with pics/diagrams would be appreciated. Thank you!

ANSWER: First, I'd like to verify the vehicle information.  According to the information I've received, this is a U.S. 2003 Elantra wagon.  In the U.S., the 2003 Elantra was offered only as a 4-door sedan and a 4-door hatchback.  

Presuming this is indeed a 2003 Elantra, the information I give below should be accurate.  If not a 2003 Elantra, please clarify the identity of the vehicle, since the shift and key lock system used on 2001-2006 Hyundai Elantras is different that that in most other Hyundai vehicles.

There are two cables connected to the shifter for the purpose of inhibiting certain actions.  One runs from the brake pedal to the shifter, preventing shifting out of park without depressing the brake pedal.  The other runs from the ignition lock to the shifter, preventing turning the ignition key to the off position without placing the key in park.  You'll want to check the adjustment and conndition of this second cable.  

The key lock cable adjustment slot is on the shifter, so you'll need to remove the console to access the adjuster.  Additionally, you may wish to remove the left lower dash panel to enable you to see the effect of your adjustments at the ignition lock.

You can find some pictures of and information regarding the system at www.hmaservice.com.  The site is free, but you'll need to give them some information to register for an account.  Once you've gained access, choose "service information" and "shop" for the shop manual section and choose your vehicle, "Elantra XD" and "2003."  You'll find the information for this particular system by choosing "Transaxle/Transmission," "Automatic Transaxle System," and then "Automatic Transaxle Shift Control."  A picture of the shifter and cables is in the second "components" link and an excellent description regarding adjustment of the aforementioned cables, including illustrations, is in the "inspection" link.

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QUESTION: Thanks for your help! My car is probably the '03 Elantra 4-dr hatchback... Looks like a wagon to me though! :)

ANSWER: You're welcome.  Everything I've said should apply.

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QUESTION: Ok, I'm feeling pretty stupid. I had the wrong year of vehicle. The correct vehicle info is: 2000 Hyundai Elantra Wagon GLS. Does this change your answer? Sorry about the mix-up!

Answer
Yes, that changes things.  The shift interlock system on the 2000 Elantra is operated electrically.  The system consists of a shift and key lock control module, the stop lamp switch, two switches on the shift lever, a solenoid on the shift lever, and a solenoid in the ignition lock.  

You'll want to perform nearly all the below checks while the problem is occurring.  Beyond checking the detent pin for bending, the results will be misleading if done while the system is functioning properly.

To check this system, you'll find www.hmaservice.com helpful for schematics and illustrations.  There's no charge to use the site, but you'll need to give them some information to register for an account.

First, check to see whether manipulating the shifter (shifting out of park and returning, holding the lever forward, depressing and releasing the shifter button, etc.) will cause the lock to allow the key to turn to the off position.  If it does, that's an indication the problem is with the shifter or the key lock switch.  

Here's where the hmaservice account will come in handy.  Log in and select service information, ETM (for Electrical Troubleshooting Manual) and 2000 Elantra.  First, select "body electrical system" and "shift and key lock control system."  This will display the schematic for the system.  Use this to familiarize yourself with the components in the system.  It may be helpful to print the schematic and have it in the car while you're doing your checks.  Next, select "general," "component location index," and "key lock switch."  The arrow doesn't quite point to the correct position, but rather to a plastic lever which is pulled by the shift lock solenoid.  Just behind this lever is the key lock switch.  If you look closely at the picture, you can see the switch and the roll pin contacting it.

If you determine the problem to be in the shifter, remove the console to check the shifter and switches.  First, check the detent pin (the one that raises and lowers when you depress the shifter button) to see if it's bent.  If so, it typically won't contact the switch properly and you'll need to replace the pin.  If not, move on to checking the key lock switch.  With the key in the ignition in a position other than off/lock, move the shifter out of the park position and depress the switch manually.  This should cause you to hear a click from the lock cylinder.  If not, I'd suspect the switch is defective.

The following requires an understanding of electricity and a test light or voltmeter for testing.  If you're not capable of doing the electrical testing and haven't determined the problem in is in the shifter, it's probably best to take the car to a good electrical shop for diagosis.  

If you cannot determine that the problem is in the shifter, I'd recommend going to the shift and key lock control module to check inputs.  This module is located behind the left side of the dash, attached to the transmission control module.  Don't be afraid to unbolt it and let it hang down for testing.  In the component location index at hmaservice, choose "transaxle and key lock control module."  This will show you a picture of the module.  Referring back to your schematic, you'll need to check for the following:
-- With the key in the on position, power from each of the fuses (blue/white and red/white wires).
-- Good ground in the black ground wire.

Presuming these are okay, check for the following:

-- Ground in the red wire at pin number 7 when the shifter is placed in park and the button is released.  There should be no ground when the button is depressed or the shifter is not in the park position.

If there is no ground present the problem is most likely with the key lock switch.  Technically, we haven't eliminated issues with the wiring to and from the switch, but these issues are very rare.

If the circuit tests as it should, then, with the key in the on position, check the blue wire at pin 5 for:
-- power (ok if not full 12V) when shifter is out of park or the shifter button is depressed.
-- ground when the shifter is in park and the shifter button is released.

If you do not get ground, then the problem is in the shift and key lock module.  
If you do get ground, and/or you don't get power as described above, then the problem is most likely in the key lock solenoid, although once again, there's a remote possibility the problem is in the wiring to or from the solenoid.