QuestionThis is in follow-up to my question at -
http://en.allexperts.com/q/Hyundai-Repair-815/1999-elantra-GL-overdrive-1.htm
Hi again. I checked the B/ALARM underhood fuse, and it was blown (30A). I tried putting another 30A fuse in there, and there were sparks and this other fuse also blew. I looked at the fuse box cover and noticed that this should only take a 10A fuse, so there must be a large draw somewhere to blow the 30A fuse. Again, I just bought the car used. When changing the fuse, the car was off, keys out of ignition, but battery was connected. Any clue as to what could be this on-going current while vehicle at OFF to blow this fuse? Again, the rear defroster, the clock (within the multiguages), and the dome light don't work. As far as I can tell, this is all of the electrical problems (the overdrive question you previously answered I assume isn't an electrical problem). Well, there's also a missing radio (just a hole in the dash, with a bundle of wires sticking out). Before putting in the second fuse, I tried to separate all of the exposed ends of the separate wires in the bundle (it was just sheared off, without any plastic connector). Also on this radio, what would be the cheapest way for me to get a good connector? Is there any way of me checking to see if all of these wires work before going out and buying a new radio? Thanks again!
AnswerIn the event I haven't yet directed you to the Hyundai service website, I'm going to do that now. You'll need to find the location of the short, so that means you'll need to systematically check the wiring to see where the short may be.
The Hyundai service website is www.hmaservice.com (requires Internet Explorer). Once you register for an account and are inside, click on the service information link. Then enter the year and model and click on the ETM (Electrical Troubleshooting Manual) tab. Right now, you're going to be primarily interested in the Power Distribution schematics.
Before tracing down the wiring, I'd recommend taping up any bare ends on the existing radio wiring. It's possible the wire (red/black in this case) from the B/Alarm fuse is touching metal in the dash and causing the fuse to blow.
If the problem is not there, then systematically begin eliminating things. Start by unplugging connector EM01. To find it's location, you'll need to click on the In Line Connector Location at the bottom of the schematic. Then click on EM01, and it'll show you a drawing of the location. In this case, it's behind the left side of the dash. If the problem goes away when EM01 is unplugged, you'll know the problem is inside the car. If it stays, you'll know it's between the fuse box and EM01.
I'll stop here since the above may have already helped you locate the problem and further instructions will be involved. If you've done all the above and need further guidance, please follow-up.
Probably the easiest and least expensive way to procure a radio connector is to cut one out of a car at a junk yard. But keep in mind this will be a factory connector. If you install an aftermarket radio, you'll still need an adaptor harness.
It's certainly possible to check the wiring. But keep in mind the radio won't work until you resolve the issue with the fuse. Simply pull up the schematic for the audio system, and it'll show you what all the wires are for.
