QuestionI just bought a 2003 Sonata (V6) and it is stalling after fill-ups. I haven't filled it myself yet, but my husband said it has done it both times he has filled it. It will start and then die. In order to keep it running he has to get moving and give it gas. I'm a DIY kind of person, when possible, so I was wondering if the repairs associated with this issue are easy to do at home. I read that replacing the gas cap may do it, and something about replacing carbon canisters, and checking purge valves. None of that sounds too complicated, but where the heck do I find a repair manual for a 2003? Seems like everywhere I look, they only have earlier years. I'd rather avoid spending the money on the manual this week since we're broke after buying the car, so if you could describe how to check these things, or provide a link explaining it, I would be forever grateful.
BTW, Yes, I am a woman, and yes, I will be the one doing the work, lol.
Thanks,
niki
AnswerHi, Niki. There's no reason being a woman working on a car should limit you. In fact I've worked with a couple very good woman mechanics.
Let's start with how you can find repair information. Hyundai has been very friendly in allowing people to register to their service information website for free. The site requires Internet Explorer, and requires Adobe SVG viewer (a free download) to see some items (especially schematics). Simply go to www.hmaservice.com and register for an account. If you don't get a response in 24 hours, try using the lost password function. If you still don't get a response try reregistering. Some people have reported difficulties with the registration, but this seems to be more due to problems with the registration system than any desire to not assign accounts.
Once inside, you can view the shop manuals, electrical schematics, and technical service bulletins for the Hyundai vehicles sold in the United States. The schematics have a component locator link at the bottom which will typically lead you to very nice pictures of where the components are located.
As for where to start, I'd suggest the purge valve itself. The fuel cap and the canister should have no effect on how the engine runs. (A check engine lamp could set if there's a problem, but the car should still drive normally).
The purge control valve is a computer controlled solenoid valve which allows fuel vapors into the engine to be burned off while you're driving. Normally, the valve is closed. There are two wires going to the valve, one with switched ignition power, and the other from the computer which grounds the solenoid valve to cause it to open. For the purge control valve to cause the problem you're having, it would need to be stuck open.
You'll find the purge control valve in a vacuum line behind the intake manifold. It'll be black, about the diameter of a quarter, and about an inch and a half long, with a nipple on either end for a hose to attach. I believe it'll be in a round rubber holder attached to a metal bracket. Take the hoses and electrical connector off the valve and take the valve off the engine. Try to blow through the valve. If you can, the valve is stuck open and is causing your problem.
If this problem doesn't happen every time you fill the tank, you need to consider just replacing the purge control valve anyway. It's possible that it'll be operating normally when you test it. Considering the possibilities, if it only happens when you fuel the vehicle, it cannot be anything other than the purge valve.
The only two ways for fuel or fuel vapor to enter the engine are through the injectors or the purge valve. If it were entering through the injectors, your problem would happen every time you shut the car off, not just when refueling. By process of elimination, that leaves the purge control valve.
