QuestionOk, I went to the dealer. They fixed the airbag problem, there was a resistance issue and they cleared it out. I told them what I had done and they think it is probably the ecu. The abs module had these codes...
c1209, c1613, c1203, c1613, c1611.
They told me they would need at least 2 more hours to check things out. They got that cool wireless hi-scan laptops. I was impressed. The guy had me in the shop with him. So, when I get the funds, I'll go back but I might check things out myself.
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Yeah, I looked in my shop manual. I know the reman one is the tcm. I know I am testing the right wire. I even did a resistance check on it to make sure it wasn't cut somewhere (with the abs and ecm unhooked of course). The tcm has white plugs and the ecm has black plugs. The white wire connects to the ecm. The only thing that boggles me is that the brown wire where the DLC goes has power, but my scanner says 0 mph while driving, but the cruise works ok. I read that the brown wire is the one for vehicle speed for the DLC.
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Well, the tcm was replaced, not the ecm. Thats the one on top of the other computer right? Can't I jump some wires and bypass the abs module? Just kind of as a test? Too bad I didn't have one of those nifty hi scan tools. lol
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The black/white was something someone did. It connects to the white wire. It looks like they replaced the connector for the white wire in the plug harness. So, that wire goes to the abs module. Just like you said, it connects to pin 22. But I didn't realize the pcm was a remanufactured one. I tried checking the plugs in the harness and it does connect properly to the pcu. I cleared the codes hoping it was a bad connection but my check engine light still comes on. p0500
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The wire spliced in makes good connection. The pcm was a reman, not the ecm like I thought. I got me a hyundai shop manual. The cruise control works and I guess that works off the vss. I noticed that the brown wire where I plug my scanner into has voltage. The car still says it isn't ready for an inspection. I'm really not sure if the ecu or pcm is to blame.
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Ok, I found the white wire and it tests ok, but I noticed that the white wire, before it connects to the ecm, was spliced and it connects to a black wire with a white stripe. Kinda like someone replaced the connector or something. I didn't see any other wires cut or anything but now i'm wondering if it connected to the right wire. The wire tests ok up to the abs module giving me some resistance when it is plugged into the ecu. When I unhook the harness from the ecu, there is no resistance so no short to ground and I get 0.00 ohms when I test so i know it's ok. (my meter won't show anything in the display if there is no connection) So it's rither spliced in the wrong spot, or the ecm.
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Maybe it doesen't have that option, just wondering why the wire is there. So you are either thinknig the abs module, the white wire or ecm? I am going to make an appt with the dealer and let them know what sensors I have replaced and that the ecm is a reman. I stopped in the dealer today and the guy said, I'll hook it up to a pocket scanner, I told him I did that, replaced the sensors, cleared the codes, and he said, oh, then it needs a diagnosis, for 80 bucks. Oh well.
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I will test the wires. Heres something new, I noticed the speed sensor also has something to do with the electronic power steering, however, when I took the center face off and looked where the radio is, the control module is gone and the wire is there dangling! How is this possible?
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I noticed that the date on the computer was a month before I bought it. Maybe the light was on and they replaced the computer? How much is an abs module? What wire do I test exactly and where are they all? There is power to the front right wheel sensor. Now this is the v6, which sensor is the one to test the wiring for? Thanks. P.S. Wanna buy a 99 sonata? lol
Answer -
The wire in question that you need to check is the white wire running from pin 3 of the ABS module (connector C104) to pin 22 of the ECM (connector C94-4). You'll want to unplug the ECM, TCM, and ABS module to do your testing. Test the wire for resistance (should be less than 1 Ohm) and to make sure it's not shorted to ground (perhaps rubbed through on the body somewhere). By doing this, you're not testing the wiring for a sensor; you're testing the communication line between the ABS module and the Engine Control Module. The ECM knows how fast you're going by the signal it receives from the ABS module. The sensor (the r/f wheel speed sensor in this case) reports to the ABS module only. The fact that your ABS works normally and the ABS lamp doesn't come on when you drive means that the ABS module is receiving this signal normally. If you don't know how to find the connectors and components or determine which pin is which, I recommend you get a free account at www.hmaservice.com (requires Internet Explorer). Once inside, you can view the electrical schematics (ETM tab), pictures of the component locations, and diagrams of which pin is which in the connectors.
If you need to by an ABS module (comes with the ABS motor and pump), I'd expect it to run you about $1250 to $1750.
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As I look at the vehicle speed sensor schematic, it appears that the electronic power steering uses the diff sensor and that I may have been mistaken about what components use the r/f wheel speed sensor. As far as I can tell from the schematic, only the ABS (and hence ECM) use the r/f wheel speed sensor. Keep in mind, though, that the ECM reads the vehicle speed from the output of the ABS module.
Furthermore, I'd be very surprised if your car actually has the electronic power steering option. I've never seen a car with it.
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It's sometimes cheaper for manufacturers to make a harness to fit, say, all V6 models, and then if it doesn't have certain options, those plugs are just not plugged into anything.
Those are the three possibilities I see. It sounds like they've quoted you $80 for some basic diagnosis. We'll see what they say.
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I'm unsure of what you mean when you say a black/white wire has been spliced in.
If you mean that one of the ends of the white wire was replaced with a black/white wire, and the resistance tested good from ABS terminal to ECM terminal, look at the terminals themselves and make sure they look okay. I know the terminals are tiny, but it's important they make good contact with the computer pins.
If you mean that someone spliced a wire in and it runs somewhere other than the ABS module or the ECM, then disconnect it and see what happens. Whatever's on the other end of the wire could be affecting the communication line.
If you're unsure if you're testing the correct wire, there are connector diagrams in the ETM on www.hmaservice.com that will help you know which cavity has which number.
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Where does this black/white wire go? Does it go to the ECM, the ABS module, or somewhere else?
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It sounds like someone has already been chasing this same problem. If the splice is good and the wire is good, then you're either looking at an issue with the ECM or the ABS module. This now begs the question whether the ECM was replaced trying to fix the problem or whether the problem arose after replacing the ECM.
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I don't recall the exact location of the computers, but you can tell the ECM because the first five digits of the part number are 39110 or something very close (like 39109, for example).
Unfortunately, there's no way to bypass the ABS module. The ABS module reads the vehicle speed from the wheel speed sensor (via an a/c voltage signal across the two wires from the r/f wheel speed sensor to the ABS module). The ABS module then sends the vehicle speed along a communication line to the ECM (the white wire we've been talking about).
But this raises another question. If you were incorrect about which module is the ECM, were you testing the correct wire?
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The wire in the DLC is the signal wire from the sensor on the transmission differential. The cruise control operates off this sensor as well. When I looked at the circuit again, I found that the only thing that gets the vehicle speed signal from the ABS module is the ECM.
AnswerHere's what the codes mean:
c1203 -- r/f wheel speed sensor issue (probably set while you were working on the car)
c1209 -- r/r wheel speed sensor issue
c1611, c1613 -- can communication errors (would occur if another computer was unplugged)
The new laptop deal is really trick. It's a little slower than the handheld scanner, but it has more useable features and is excellent for monitoring one thing at a time.
