Jaguar Repair: fuel guage

Question
QUESTION: Hello Howard,
Ive noticed in your threads that you have experience with this model of jag,Ive recently rescued a xj6 from a dormant existance,150,000 klm.mint interior,rotten corner panels,strong engine.Fuel was old,removed from tanks.Runs great,everything works except fuel guage.I removed the left light lens and can get at the sender.You mentioned i must remove it to lubricate the float arm.Is there a proprietary tool required?I appreciate your comments and enjoy your threads.
Regards,Happy Holidays
Paul Sephton

ANSWER: Hi Paul,

You should see three ears on the ring that holds the sending unit in. If you look closely at the ring you will see that there are ramps that wedge it in tight. So all you need to do is to put any suitable tool like a heavy flat blade screwdriver on one of the ears and tap it toward the direction so as to losen the wedge. First be sure that the fuel tank is very low or close to empty. With the ring removed the sending unit just slides out the back. With the unit out move the arm up and down to see if it is free moving.

Most that I have done that had quit working after being stored for a long time were just rusted and it took careful working up and down and some WD-40 or such, sprayed on it. If it is stuck don't force it, just keep wiggling it a little at a time. I was able to save almost all of them this way. If is is rusted solid and no amount of lube and wiggling frees it up all you can do is replace it.

Howard

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QUESTION: Ill try that Howard thank you.I did not think that i had the room to knock it out like that.Seems tight.
regards Paul

ANSWER: I take them out that way all the time. I use a very large flat blad screwdriver and just put the blad against the tab and then I use a small hammer to tap on the side of the screwdriver blad close to the ring and they will come out that way. I turn the hammer sideways because there is not room to swing the hammer the normal manner.

Howard

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Hello Howard, came out just like you said, the arm is free, but the plastic float has fuel in it. Two questions Can I check
the resistance on the sender? And can I get just the float or do I have to buy the whole unit. Maybe repair the float?
Thanks again Howard

Answer
Hi Paul,

The float is plastic and when it gets even a little fuel inside it will not float. If you noted that side tank, when selected would read empty even after filling the tank then the electrical may be ok. FIRST BE SURE TO either tape over the open hole in the tank or stuff a rag in it so that you don't have fumes in the area of the float while running the test because moving it around you could cause a spark at the wire connections and you don't want to blow youself up. Gasoline does not burn, only the fumes burn. To test it just connect both wires up to the sending unit and have someone turn the key to "ON" (not start) and move the lever up and down to see if the gauge responds. The gauge will respond slowly, so don't expect to see the gauge move as fast as you move the float.

I replaced some of the sending units in the dealerships but don't remember if the floats were available separately. To find out, contact one of the Jaguar parts suppliers like Engel Imports, Moss Motors or any of the other Jag parts companies and ask.
I have not tried to repair a Jag float but have repaired other floats like that. I first located the leak point and I drilled a very small hole opposit it to let in air so as to drain the gas out. Then I warmed the float up a little with a hair dryer being careful not to get it too hot. This was to vaporize the little bit of gas on the walls of the inside of the float. Then I just blew with my mouth on the hole I drilled to exhaust the vapors. On one, the leak was so small it was hard to get the fuel out so I turned it until I found the leak and I drilled a second hole at the leak so I could exhaust the fuel and the vapors after draining.
I could not find a glue that would not melt in gasoline so with the float cleaned out, I used the tip of an electric soldering iron to weld the little holes shut. The smaller the holes you drill the easier it is to seal up the holes.

Howard