QuestionQUESTION: HI HOWAED:
GOT THE WIRES CROSSED WHEN REMOVING THE SPARKPLUG WIRES.
I KNOW THE FIRING ORDER ON THE ENGINE 153624 IS PLUG #1
@ THE BACK NEAR THE FIRE WALL OR IS THE #6 PLUG @ THE BACK.
OR IS THE 1 AND 6 THE SAME.THE # ONE PLUG ON THE DISTRIBUTOR
WHERE IS IT LOCATED EXACTLY.IS IT NEAR THE RETAINING SCREW ON
THE LEFT SIDE OF THE RETAINING SCREW TOWARD THE BACK OF THE
ENGINE IF YOU WERE LOOKING @ THE ENGINE FROME THE SIDE WHERE
THE AIR FILTER IS LOCATED.I KNOW THAT THE ROTORY TURNS COUNTER
CLOCKWISE. DOES THE PLUGS RUN 123456 COUNTER CLOCKWISE?
ANSWER: Hi Richard,
Jaguar calls the back cylinder #1 and the front #6.
As for where #6 is in the cap will have depended on who ever had it apart last so you are going to have to do the following.
lets follow the original Jaguar sequence and call the last cylinder #1. Remove that plug only and remove the large white w/red tracer wire off of the metal relay on the fire wall and be sure the car is in "Park". Rig a short jumper wire from that spade connector in the wire end and either use it to touch the (+) post of the battery or connect up a remote starter button if you have one.
Now place your thumb over the plug hole and "Bump" the starter a little at a time until you feel compression on your thumb and stop and have someone with a light look at the timing mark on the front pulley and lightly "Bump" the starter a little at a time until you see the marks line up close to the TDC pointer. 5 or 10 degrees off don't matter. If you over run it just put your thumb on the hole again and try again until you are sure close to TDC of the Compression Stroke of #1. To confirm it put a coat hangar wire down in the combustion chamber to feel the top of the piston.
Now (if you are 100% sure you are on the compression stroke and close to TDC,) remove the distributor cap and look at where the rotor is pointed. Put that longest plug wire in that position in the cap. That is Jaguar's #1 plug. Now place each wire in the cap going in the counterclockwise direction around the cap with the wires for the firing order (153624) (keep in mind that you are calling the rear #1 and second from the rear #2 and finishing at the front with #6. But the order in the cap must be 153624. Then you can start the engine and use a timing light to set the ignition timing accurately to what ever specs say for what ever year model you have. (there use to be a sticker under the hood with ignition timing for that car)
Howard
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: THANKS HOWARD:
THE PROCEDURE WORKED.....THE PROBLEM NOW IS THAT THERE IS OIL
ON THE #1 PISTON THE CAR HAS A BLOWN HEAD GASKET SO THEY SAY,
IT WILL RUN UNTIL YOU SHUT IT DOWN AFTER A WHILE THEN THE SAME
OLD SAME OLD..DID YOU CATCH THAT DRIFT? I HAVE TO GET THE WATER
OFF THE PLUG AND PISTON WHERE IT IS GETTING WATER/ OIL BECAUSE
IT STEAMS WHEN I DO GET IT RUNNING YOUR EXPERTISE IS PERFECT.
AnswerHi Richard,
The proper procedure to test an engine with those symptoms is as follows.
First and most important is to establish if the engine is sound. To do this you need to run a "Dry Compression Test". All plugs out and power wires (white wires) off of the coil. Spin the engine over at least 5 or 6 revolutions with the compression gauge in and the throttle wide open. You should see from 125 PSI to 170 PSI on all 6 cylinders with little difference between cylinders. Write down the readings.
If you have this or not, you should run a "Wet Compression Test". The "Wet" test is the same as the "Dry" test except you add about 4 or 5 squirts of engine oil (about a table spoon of oil) into a cylinder just before the compression test. You will see an increase in compression on each and every cylinder normally. The increase should not be any more then 10% to 15% higher then the "Dry" test.
If a cylinder is low and you see a raise of more then 15%, you have a ring problem on that cylinder. If a low cylinder does not increase, you probably have a valve problem or a badly blown head gasket. If you have two low cylinders and neither come up on the "Wet" test, there is a good chance that the head gasket is blown between those two cylinders.
A more accurate test is a "Leak-Down" test but not everyone has access to a "Leak-Down" tester and compressed air. A compression gauge is very inexpensive and available everywhere.
The fact that you are getting water on a plug does not mean for sure you have a leaking head gasket. You could have a leaking intake manifold gasket.
If the "Dry" and "Wet" compression test show good, and you have water on a plug, you should have the cooling system pressure tested to check of a intake manifold gasket. All auto repair shops have a cooling system pressure tester and it should not cost much for just the test itself.
Some mechanics just do the cooling system pressure test to check for a leaking head gasket. This can be deceiving if the "Dry & Wet" tests were not done first. A car was brought to me in a Jaguar dealership once where a customer took his Jag to a local garage mechanic to have it tested for similar problems and the mechanic pulled all the plugs and applied a pressure to the cooling system and out of one spark plug hole came water (coolant). The mechanic was not familiar with Jaguar and didn't want the repair job so it came to us.
When he pressurized the cooling system, the water leaked into the intake manifold and filled the intake manifold and an open intake valve allowed the water to enter a cylinder and out the plug hole thus a wrong diagnosis.
So all tests must be done in the correct sequence. Even then some times that is up set when more then one problem is present.
But for most cases the "Dry & Wet" test will show what is wrong.
Howard
