Jaguar Repair: turn signals not working, turn signal switch, volt meter

Question
HI HOWARD
WE TRIED A SET OF TURN SIGNALS OFF ANOTHER JAG WHITCH MEANS THOSE
SIGNALS DID NOT WORK (WHICH IS GOOD) MEANING THAT THE THE ORIGANAL
ONES MAY BE OK. THE FLASHER WORKS AN THE 15AMP FUSE IS NOT BLOWN.
IF THERE IS ANOTHER FUSE I DO NOT KNOW WHERE IT IS LOCATED....
I DO NOT HAVE A DIAGRAM. MAYBE THE OTHER FUSE MIGHT BE THE PROBLEM. IF SO DO YOU KNOW WHERE IT IS LOCATED?

Answer
Richard, many fuses are 15 amp I need the Fuse #. All of the fuses in the main (drivers side) and the Aux panel (passengers side) are numbered.

The two fuses that control the turn signals are BOTH 15 amp and they do different things so I need to know which fuse # you checked to be able to help you diagnose what is wrong.

Also, looking at a fuse does NOT test it. You must put a 12v test light on each side of it to be sure it is good. Some fuses can look good but have a broken filament not a burned filament so it will look good but not be good. Diagnosing electrical problems is NOT leaving stones unturned and looking at a fuse for a burned filament is leaving stones unturned, you MUST test them.

The two fuses are both 15 amp and both are in the main panel. # 2 and # 10 are the fuses that power the Hazard Switch and both must be good (tested not look good) and the hazard switch must be good for the power to reach the flasher. The flasher unit powers the turn signal switch and also powers a section of the hazard switch. The turn signal switch then powers the lights when turned to either side. You said the flasher was good but it is difficult to test a flasher unless you know how so that is why I asked how you knew the flasher was good. Did you just remove it from a working system car or did you test it?

Half of the series III cars I worked on over the years had a broken hazard switch.

EVERY time you do any electrical work you must have a wiring diagram in front of you and a test light or volt meter and you must have a system of testing. Some mechanics start at the source (power supply) and work their way a connection at a time toward the load (item that doesn't work)

I always start at the load (item that doesn't work) and test my way toward the source (power supply) one connection at a time. This is a 100% correction method and it is impossible to fail to find the problem and without purchasing any part until the failed part is found.

The diagram is at http://mg-tri-jag.net/XJ-6Turn1x1.jpg
Print the diagram and keep it in front of you while you test (not just look).