QuestionThanks for reading my rather long question... here's the background information...
95 Range Rover Classic LWB. I had a remanufactured 4.6 liter long block installed about 7,000 miles ago. Performance cam, timing chain, ignition wires, etc. OEM plugs, Lucas cap and rotor. I installed a new Y-Pipe/cats and O2 sensors about 3,000 miles ago.
It ran like a dream until several months ago it began to hesitate and miss once warm (10-12 minutes of driving). After a while, the hesitation and sputtering grew worse. I never got a CEL or code of any kind. Eventually, it began stalling once warm, especially if I started it when it was warm.
One day, it decided not to start at all. After much investigation and replacement of the fuel pump, I discovered that the distributor clamp was loose and the timing was off. I set the timing back to approximately where it should go. It starts fine now, but after 10-12 minutes of driving, it sputters out, stalls, and refuses to start again until it sits overnight and cools down.
At this point, I'm thinking there's something with the coolant temp sensor to the ECU or the fuel temp sensor. Are these accurate concerns? Could there be an issue with the new fuel pump? Or am I overlooking something else?
Again, thanks very much for your time- I know this is a long question, but I tried to include only relevant information.
AnswerI cannot point you to any specific thing, but I can tell you how to solve the problem. The 1995 Rover has a simple fuel injection system that can be tested with a pressure gauge and a hand held meter.
Get the factory workshop manual (available online at www.landrovertechinfo.com or in print form from Atlantic British or Rovers North) and look up the step by step test procedure for the fuel injection. It's a 10-15 page procedure but no special tools ar eneeded.
I suggest you perform the test when the truck is actually failing to start, as the readings are no doubt normal at other times.
