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Hello, Mr Mclnnis,how are you today Friday, Feb 6th 2004 EST time now 9:51am..I do alot of work on my Discovery and would like to Flush brake lines res etc,
and renew brake fluid etc...also want to then install the new Stainless steel brake lines..my brakes are ABS all around front and rear...Now I know you have to be real careful not to get air in the brake lines etc when flushing fluid etc...the local Landrover dealership wants to charge me for 2 1/2 hrs for this job...at $92.00 USD thats alot of money and would rather do it myself but I do realize that the brakes should be done by someone who knows.....can I do this job and if so could you give me some pointers as well as a step by step procedures
on how to do this job....also can you give me a step by step on how to flush master clutch res and lines etc..and what fluid to use in the clutch master cylinder etc...oh one more thing how often should the brake fluid be flushed or bleed etc...and how often to flush master clutch cylinder and lines etc...thanks for your time...PS one last thing can I snug up /tighten headcover bolts etc and if so what are the torque specs to tighten headcover bolts etc...the reason I ask is because I have noticed small leak on the front corner of headcovers on both sides is this normal or should I tighten bolts or just leave it alone and except it as normal for this engine type etc...or do you think I need to replace head gaskets...hope all this is clear ...thanks for your time please repond Standing by terminal...E Mail me back at ldapolito@earthlink.net....If I let the dealership do these jobs how long should it take a seasoned mechanic..so I know for future reference and know that I am not getting ripped off ....sorry I can ramble for hours take care standing by for your reply in NYC NY PEACE and good health to you ..please dont confuse valvecovers with headcover bolts I mean headcover not valvecover etc...had to clear that up with you ..
Answer -
Hello Gregory,
WOW....you've got quite a bit of work ahead of you! BTW: its John.
Brake line changes: this is messy work. 2.5 hours at $90/hour is average for LR dealer. Find a local garage and get a better quote. You could buy braided lines but you'll have trouble removing the old ones, especially on a '95. Lots of dirt and rust. Yes, I'd go with Stainless Steel too. I heard of a fellow in S.Africa who bent his own lines...had to..nearest LR shop was 300 miles. He had all the machinery, so why not.
Don't be concerned too much about bleeding the lines. Yes, its an important factor but its easy to do if you have a helper. If its just you...well...you can buy kits for a one-person bleeding job. If you change the lines you are going to change the fluid. Buy the best Dot3 and pour, brake, pour, brake until it comes out of the caliper nipples smooth and no bubbles.
According to manual, flush fluids every 2 years: brakes and clutch master cyl. Use Dot3 for both. I use STP but you could ask your LR dealer if they suggest something else.
Careful torquing those bolts. Better off replacing the gasket and leave the bolts alone. IF you see a leak, you need a new gasket...especially on a '95. The leak you describe is normal. I have a '95 and I had to replace my gasket. S'normal!
Head gasket replacement is another thing: check your oil..is it frothy...do you loose coolant? Then suspect your headgasket and do it quickly. DOn't want to loose your engine because you want to save a few bucks. If you can do the work yourself, you'll save $$$ but if you've never done it before...leave it to a mechanic. Does not have to be a LR mechanic...find someone you can trust. Gaskets are $10 but labour can run to $250. ouch.
For work as you describe: its hard to be ripped off. You know what you want done and they have all the tools to do it. Its when you don't know what has to be done that LR dealers make their money. I've been #@$%&^ by my local dealer and that's what prompted me to start helping other Disco owners. Its really "Buyer beware".
Best of luck,
JohnMc
thanks for the best wishes...too!
"Thanks John very much for your speedy reply to my questions"....listen could you tell me where the bleed nipple is for clutch master cylinder etc on my 1995 model year....I want to flush out fluid etc...or do you think I should just bleed until clean fluid comes out the bleed nipple or nipples ha ha just kidding any how etc... please give me a Step by step procedure on how to proform this procedure... thanks...also I thought the brake fluid for a 1995 Discovery 3.9 5 spd was dot # 4 but I could be wrong.....in the USA it is..Im pretty darn sure
As for my headcover gaskets...its really just "sweating oil"not really leaking and just around the corners..ya know what I mean one more thing "remember" I mean head gaskets not the valve cover gaskets not to confuse you... I have those in check.. I snug them up every change of season because of expansion and retraction due to climate and temp changes also I have installed the new style neoprene gaskets ..."My oil is not frothy or milky etc"
and I dont seem to be lossing any antifreeze in any large amounts or out of the norm range...I change the oil every 2,500 miles or so...and have never noticed any of the two symptoms " you refer to but the Landy only has 42,000 original miles on her....
...one last thing do you think that "every year or so.. I should suck out some of the Brake fluid ..out of the "res and clutch master cylinder res"?? just to keep fresh fluid in the system or is this not really nessesary...I wont take too much out maybe three quarters or so...also could you give me a "step by step procedure on fluishing and bleeding brake fluid and clutch master cylinder etc...thanks again I cant think of anything else at the moment but you will be hearing from me often about different issues on my 1995 Discovery CHEERS and good health and peace to you and yours...E Mail ldapolito@earthlink.net the time now is 6:18am IN NYC NY on sat morn FEB 7th 2004 standing by for another speedy reply again thanks for your time ang help..oh just remembered I want to install DBA brake rotors all around...how long should this take a good mechanic to proform and could you give me a step by step procedure for this service etc... I am thinking 2 or 3 hrs does that sound about rite to you ...I do know that the hub nut must be removed but thats as far as I know about that...I know how to change brake pads but not the rotors...sorry I can ramble on and on take care ..standing by terminal for your response Cheers....
AnswerHi Gregory,
You're right! My error. Dot4 is used for brakes and clutch. Change brake and clutch fluids every 2 years.
DOT4 fluid absorbs moisture which can cause all sorts of problems, especially for the clutch master cyl.(CMC) So use only 'fresh' fluid.
To change clutch fluid: you'll need some help. Two-man job is best. There are kits for one-man bleeding but why pay extra?
1. Unscrew CMC cap. Make sure no dirt gets in.
2. Locate small cap (size of your finger tip) and remove. Found on base of CMC - pipe attached here as well.
3. Attach a clean flexible hose snuggly over nipple.
4. Place open hose in collection jar (clear jar is best as you can see any rust, dirt etc. IF ANY)
5. Make sure CMC reservoir is at MAX.
6. Using open-end spanner, unsrew bleeding nipple (only a slight turn is necessary)
7. Have assistant press fully down on clutch AND HOLD IT DOWN.
8. Fluid will flow into jar. Make sure CMC reservoir is at MAX never goes below MIN.
9. Repeat until you feel new fluid has circulated throughout the CMC.
10. Watch for bubbles in collection jar.
11. When done, tighten nipple bleeder screw. clean nipple, replace cap.
Brake fluid: you could use a syringe to remove fluid but a more through job would be to bleed/flush it out thru one or all wheels. Just make sure you never go below minimum level.
As for rocker cover bolts: if you do tighten them that often, make sure you do it correctly. 1, 3, 2, 4 and not linear.
Head bolts are at 15 lbf . again be careful
I'll send you an email about the rest.
Regards,
JohnMc
