QuestionQUESTION: The headlights and taillights stopped working on my 77 MGB- the brake lights and turn signals work fine. While driving last the lights just turned off. I removed the light switch off the steering column- it broke apart. I put it back together- all that was inside was a small black plastic piece that fit in some grooves and a spring. I cleaned the 3 contacts- reconnected the parts & the red/green, blue & brown wires- still no lights. I checked the switch with an ohm meter- it does not work- no contact. Seems there should have been a metal piece inside that the spring would push on to make connection with the 3 contacts. Does anyone know just what is inside an MG headlamp switch- am I missing a piece- should I get a new switch?
ANSWER: Hi Mark. The main lighting switch on the 77-80 MGB was always a weak point. Internally it is identical to the switches on earlier cars, but the operating lever is different. There is a spring-loaded plunger and a brass slider. Once they fall apart, you will probably see that something has cracked so it could fall apart again at any moment. I recommend that you fit a new switch, available from Moss Motors.
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QUESTION: Thanks Barry- so there was a brass slider- I figured there was something missing. Our local Faspec British Car part place closed- so I'll try Moss Motors- thanks for the info.
btw- my MGB is only driven less than 1000 miles/year- usually Sept-Oct only- then garaged. I think I should have the car looked over- just because it has set for so long (I did not drive it last year)- what would you suggest to start with, besides the obvious (oil, antifreeze change, etc). It has 70,000 miles on it. It has wire wheels too. I felt the front hubs after driving- they were a bit warm- could this be bearings? The tires are micelin with nice tread- but the side walls are cracked. Some oil leaks around oil pan gasket. Anyway- I know there is a lot to look at- just not sure where to start. It has a newer webber carb and clutch 2. Mark
AnswerHi Mark. If your car sits for long periods, items such as brake pistons can sieze. This would explain why the front hubs felt hot when you drove the car - the disk brake pistons have stuck in their bores due to lack of use and possibly moisture in the brake fluid. I would remove each front wheel, remove the brake pads, and then push the pistons back in their bores using an expanding tool. If you don't have one, then a large pair of slip-joint pliers might do the trick.
Brake fluid should be drained and refilled every 3 years, even if the car is not used. It attracts water like a magnet attracts iron filings.
Rubber components should be inspected and replaced if they have gone hard or cracked. That includes water hoses, fuel hoses, and brake hoses. Tyres should be replaced every 10 years, irrespective of how much tread is left on them. The treads go hard, and the sidewalls crack. The tyres will have much less grip than new ones, and you could have a blow out at any time.
Finally, when you park the car for the winter, remember to leave the brakes off so the rear brake shoes don't rust to the drums. Personally, I have an old broom with a cut down handle. I put the end of the handle on the clutch pedal, then I wedge the broom head into the driver's seat, so that the pedal is pushed fully down. That way, you will avoid having the clutch frozen to the flywheel.
