MG Car Repair: (2) revitalizing the charcoal filter, vacuum advance, amp fuse, twin carbs


Question
QUESTION: Barrie,
I just got my computer back!
The other problems have been solved. Would like more info about the additional fan relay you put in to cut power usage!?
(1)I would like to replace the charcoal filter. Were can I get the charcoal?
(2) Looking at my distibutor the vacuum advance line is missing!
how can I run like this. I take it should be pullin vacuum from the carb is that correct?

as always thanks for your help in advance
pete

ANSWER: Hi Pete.  The charcoal filter was only fitted to export cars.  I believe it is a sealed unit, so if you need one, you should buy a replacement canister from Moss Motors.  They cost about US$100, and they contain activated charcoal.  

Yes, you need a vacuum advance line.  I really need to know the year of the car, and how many carbs you have to answer this.  On early cars it attached to a small connection on one of the carburetters.  On later cars with twin carbs, it was attached directly to a small connector on the inlet manifold.  I do not know the arrangement for the single Stromberg fitted to some late USA cars, but the exploded diagrams on the Moss website should answer your question.  

Start here:

http://www.mossmotors.com/Browse/PlateMenuProducts.aspx?WebCatalogID=8&PlateType

The power to the fans goes via the thermostatic switch.  If you run a fresh power supply directly from the Brown side of the bottom fuse in the main fusebox, you can rewire the thermostatic switch to operate a relay.  I use a relay with a built-in fuse as an extra safety feature.  A 10 amp fuse should be sufficient.   

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Barrie,
Sorry for the delay, (computer problems)!
All previous problems have been remedied with your help! thank you!  :)

I'm still in need of your expertise!
1)Where does the vacuum advance on the distributor get its vacuum?  I notice a swedge fitting on the vacuum actuator which appears to be going to what I will call plastic pea tubing which goes to some kind of switch under the hood on the drivers side; from this switch another line of pea tubing goes to the engine which appears to be pulling vacuum for this system!?
Are my assumptions correct? (well maybe!?)
I would like to get this corrected!
2) The air system in back on the hood which goes directly into the dash for cooling---how are you suppose to keep water out of the system? There isn't any way to shut this off!?
3) Could I put a bigger motor in the circulation system in this vehicle?
I still haven't taken mine apart to see if all is working but right now it doesn't move much air ---- my thoughts more power!? lol

as always thank you in advance for your much needed knowledge
pete

Answer
MG Car Repair: (2) revitalizing the charcoal filter, vacuum advance, amp fuse, twin carbs
SU HIF44 Carb  
Hi Pete.  Three questions require three answers:

1) Most MGs have the vacuum take-off from one of the carburetters.  I attach a picture of a HIF44 carb with the vacuum takeoff on top.  Some have this small tube underneath.  If you have twin carbs, only one will have a take-off.  

2) The chrome air intake grille is just in front of the windscreen.  At the bottom of the deep hole there is a rubber drain tube with a one-way valve on the bottom.  These get full up with earth and leaves, so they clog.  Then the whole thing starts to fill with water, which spills out onto the carpet by your feet.  You need to rod the tube out with a long screwdriver.  To prevent it clogging again, buy a stainless steel mest that clips underneath the chrome grille.  They ware fitted to the RV8 and lots of MGB owners fit them.  Available from Moss Motors.

3) The blower motor under the hood is not very powerful.  Later cars had a 2-speed one (slow and even slower).  Moss Motors sell a more powerful motor with a redesigned fan.  I suggest you get a copy of their (free) MBG catalogue.