QuestionQUESTION: Howard, first thanks for your patience. This is what I see. I have a Lucas 25D
distributor--and a 12V Sports coil. Neg side of coil has a lead (not original
wire- it is generic white) going to the bottom of distributor--a terminal
connection that inside the distributor attaches to a black flexible wire that
connects to a terminal post that the points are connected to.
There is also a lead that comes from a main wire loom (also not original and
now white in color) connected to positive side of coil. There is a sticky on it
that old owner wrote--to coil +. I am hoping this wire is right based on
his past installation.
There is only one other wire. It is also been replaced (it is now white
generic) and it attaches to neg side of coil. There is a sticky on it that says
TACH. Again, I hope the old owner connected this right.
There are no other wires. There is no other leads going to the distributer.
You mentioned there is a a wire that connects to the points. (inside
distributer, there is only one lead that comes out...that is the bottom
terminal on the distributer). I am not sure what you mean here. I have also
looked at a wire diagram--it only shows TACH lead, Distributer lead, and
ground.
I will attach a picture. if it helps.
JGP
ANSWER: Jon,
You need to confirm what each wire does since all have been put in by some previous owner.
Put the test light on the positive side of the coil and turn the key on. The test light should turn on. This confirms that the key is powering the coil.
The distributor wire to the negative side of the coil can be tested easily by a test light too. Turn the key on and put the test light on the negative side of the coil and note if the test light is on or off. If it is on hand rotate the engine and see if it turns off and as you rotate the engine further the light should turn on again. This indicates the points are working correctly.
For test purpose disconnect the "Tach" wire when running the above tests and ignition tests.
Howard
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Ok. The wires are correct. I also have 12v at coil and at points. I rotated
engine and as points open, light turns on--as points close, light turns off. I
cleaned points again, checked for spark from new sports coil--jumped 1/2
inch;mixed orange and blue. Checked spark at end of #1 lead--same color,
strong spark.
So, unless there is something else you can suggest to check at ignition--
fuel?
I tried to spray starting fluid into the carb--the carb pistons are in the way.
I tried lifting them by hand--holding throttle flaps open and spraying. Then
tried to turn car--no start. Should I try to spray in as someone else cranks
or something?
Again, I have compression...
AnswerYou say you have compression but how much compression? It needs to be from 125 to 180 PSI with little difference between cylinders.
You need to spray into the intake while the engine is spinning.
You have spark but you MUST be sure it is at the correct time so set the timing exactly.
An engine that has compression, fire and fuel with conditions on each of the three like Compression at or above 125 PSI and a blue spark at the correct time and a combustible fuel available to the combustion chamber in about the correct air/fuel ratio HAS TO RUN Physics demands that.
Let me know,
Howard
