QuestionQUESTION: Recently Purchased car with history of sitting for a year then being tuned up by unknown but foreign car mechanic. Car was running well for last 400 + miles. After a week of sub freezing weather, took it for a drive after warm up. Oil pressure and dip stick: OK; Water level with anti freeze a little low ( about 1/2 liter) so... probably not issue. Drove car approximately 1 mile. performed well, Presurre and temp OK. Then... stopped, turned off engine... no strange noises ( that we noticed) had 15 minute conversation with friend... got back in car and... ENGINE HAD SEIZED. HELP!
Removed plugs: 3 we lightly black with some carbon abd a little oiley. 4 cylinder plug was reddish brown all over. intensely reddish brown. Issue is not transmission. or clutch.
I have put some penetrating oil in cylinders. Now waiting.
But... What am I faced with? Any suggestions?
New pistons and rings? re boreing cylinders? Your guidance or speculation would be appreciated. Thanks John Rau
ANSWER: Hi John
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but it sounds to me like a nasty problem, and to fix it the engine must be removed from the car and dismantled.
Are you absolutely sure it is the engine? If the starter cannot turn it over try turning it by hand. With all 4 spark plugs out, you should be able to turn it using the radiator fan.
If the engine has seized solid, one possibility is that the piston rings on number 4 piston have broken, and a piece has jammed in the bore. That would explain the brown rust on the plug. However, you just drove it, and it didn't seize until after you stopped. That puzzles me. You would need to take the head off and have a look at the bores. If number 4 is badly scored, then you will need a full rebore, new pistons, the lot. It won't be cheap. I am concerned that maybe a crankshaft oilway has blocked so that cylinder number 4 is not receiving any lubrication. The engine would run, but the piston would get very hot, and when you stopped it could then seize solid. Even if you free the piston, it will only happen again the next time you drive it.
I once had an engine that seized due to a blocked oilway feeding the camshaft bearings. The camshaft got so hot that it locked solid when the car was stopped after a drive of only 10 miles. The engine would not turn over on the starter, and even an attempt to tow-start the car could not get the engine to rotate. To diagnose this, you would have to remove the radiator, and then the engine front cover. There should be sufficient slack in the timing chain that you can tell if the part that has seized is attached th the crank (bottom pulley) or the cam (top pulley).
Don't ignore the rust on plug number 4. You may have more than one problem. These things can happen if an old car has been standing for a long time.
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QUESTION: OK. And thanks.. so far. new development: Penetrating oil worked! Engine freed up with socket wrench on crank shaft. Car runs! ,,, ugh that is "ran". took short drives. everything OK. then noticed water leak. Confused because temp still showing no more than 190F.However leak ( around water pump) is significant. Last drive was again about a mile, stopped and engine seized again. And it won't budge.
Currently soaking it in oil. But am confused about why this is intermitent.
Checked plugs again. # 4 is different color than other 3 but I don't think it's rust. just burning at a different temp. brownish color appears normal. others are just carbon black. Have removed radiator to fix water pump. now have access to cranksshaft. How much pressure can I apply? Any suggestions? I am going to check camshaft for "play".
ANSWER: You have got to find out what is seizing and fix it.
When you try to turn the crank, can you detect ANY movement at all?
Can you rock it forward and back just a little, or is it absolutely solid? The reason I ask is because there may be a little free play at the timing chain. If it is solid, either a piston has seized or a crankshaft bearing has seized. If it rocks a little, the crank is free to rotate so it is the camshaft that has seized.
Let me know which it is. You may not have to undo the crankshaft pulley bolt. They are done up very tight. I sometimes have to use a chisel to shock it undone until I can turn it with a socket. The factory sold a special socket spanner with a lump on the other end to hit with a big hammer.
As regards the temp gauge, it reads water temperature. Once you have lost a significant quantity of water, the sender will not be immersed in water and will no longer give a meaningful reading.
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QUESTION: I'm glad I'm not a doctor. This car is now baffling me. Got it unseized with breaker ( cheater). Used another brand of penetrating oil , too. Removed water pump and took it to local independent NAPA guy who knows his stuff. Water leak may be coming from weeping hole. For 29.oo I think it best to just replace the pump and eliminate that question. Now as to seizing... New thought.... when I turn the crank ( no plugs) the starter is turning also. I thought the starter was supposed to be disengaged. When I turn the car over with the key the starter is making chattering noises. Do you suppose? It isn't the engine seizing but the starter? Could the starter lock up so tight that all my strength with a cheater is required? When it does become free, it is with a noiseless pop. it just releases. In turning the crank I don't "feel" any resistance. It's stiff and takes some pressure but it's smooth feeling. Maybe just replacing the starter is a good idea. But I find it hard to imagine the starter locking up and then working. ????? any thoughts ot experience?
AnswerNow we are getting somewhere. The starter is throwing out but not returning. When you drive the car the starter motor gets VERY hot. When you stop, it seizes solid. Eventually it cools off and you can turn the engine again. Take it off and fit an exchange starter motor. I hope that the ring gear on the flywheel is not damaged, because that would mean removing the engine to fix. With the motor removed, you should be able to see the ring gear. Turn the engine by hand and inspect every tooth. They usually go in two places at 180 degrees from one another.
