MG Car Repair: Midget clutch hydraulics, clutch hydraulics, clutch master

Question
Howard-
I recently rebuilt the trans in my 75 Midget 1500. Replaced the laygear, reverse idler, and 1-2 synchro hub.
Replaced the clutch master and slave cylinders, and hose. I'm having trouble achieving any clutch pedal resistance. I'm not sure if my issue is slave cylinder related,(the depth of the pushrod throw), or bleeding the air through the system. Also, can you tell me about the slave cyl: 1)hydraulic supply line is on top, bleeder screw on bottom... 2)bleeder screw on top, hydraulic line on bottom... or 3)doesn't matter which is on top. I've lost track, and my manual doesn't indicate the proper position.
Thank you,
Mike

Answer
Hi Mike,
When I have a problem like that on a car that enclose the arm and clutch rod (mostly Triumphs)I just measure the distance from the end of the rod to the outer surface of the plate and bell housing, then measure in to the pinch bolt then push the slave piston all the way in and measure from the center of the piston out to the groove where the pinch bolt goes and you will be able to see if the clutch push rod is going to travel far enough to push on the pressure plate. That way you will know if something came apart in the bell housing.
As far as the bleeder position, Bentley manual shows the bleeder on top but I have found them in both positions. It is harder to bleed if it is on the bottom unless you are using a pressure bleeder, then it doesn't matter. I like it on top so I can bleed it by just opening the bleeder and wait for it to start dripping and close it and it is finished. Always works, no pedal pumping or anything.
let me know,
Howard