QuestionI have a starting problem with my 1998 sebring coupe 2.5 (6 cyl, dual overhead) - I suspect a vaccum leak or egr issue. Since this car is really a Mitsubishi, I thought I would appeal to a Mitsubishi expert.
It started a couple of months ago when I suddenly (out of the blue) had a really tough time starting the car one morning. After applying lots of gas and cranking for long interval I got it started and after a few moments of rough idle it was fine. Being proactive, I thought I would change out plugs. This is no small task. My neighbour did this one before on his dodge avenger (same car) so he helped. We had to remove the air intake manifold to do this. When we finished, we replaced all plugs, wires, dist/cap, rotor, and manifold gasket. Upon starting the car for the first time I had to hold the accelerator down slightly in order to keep it running. To this day (approx 1 month later) The Accerator has to be applied for approx 10 - 15 seconds (continuously, not reving) before letting go, otherwise the car simply dies as the RPM's fall down to 0. After performing this starting ritual the car continues to run fine. Also, each start after this for up to about 5 hours can be done normally, but once the block cools all the way down again I have have to hold in the accerator for 10 seconds again.
This was very disappointing especially after performing such a monumental maintenace task. I have been living with this issue for the past month or so with the starting ritual getting no better or worse. But recently the car feels like it is miss firing while idleing. But only after it is really warm, being running for a while, but not when the accelerator is being depressed or during regular driving conditions, only when idleing (like getting off the highway and sitting on off ramp). This miss firing concerns me. It has never stalled out nor feels like it is going to stall, but definite rough idle here and there.
I was thinking vaccum leak, based on the car taking this 10- 15 seconds after starting to establish a 'vaccum' (this is my layman idea as I am far from a technichian). I have checked and rechecked all the hoses that I had to disconnect when removing the manifold and they all seem to be connected securley and no sign of 'hissing' anywhere when running.
Can you suggest a starting point for my self diagnostic. By the way, it is not throwing any codes.
AnswerDanny,
Replacing the rear bank of spark plugs on those engines is a pain, but it's a good regular maintenance item to do.
Your sputtering and stalling is probably related to an intake or fuel problem. Replace your air and fuel filters to start with. Clogged air and/or fuel filters or insufficient fuel pressure will cause the problem you're seeing. Also, if you have the service manual for your car (or if your neighbor knows how to) test the car's Idle Speed Control motor (ISC). This is also referred to as the Idle Air Control (IAC). It's attached to your throttle body, and regulates idle speed. A service manual should outline a simple procedure you can do to check this.
You should also have your battery and alternator tested. Auto parts stores like AutoZone, Pepboys, and Advanced Auto parts can perform load tests on these items for free. You may have a battery that simply isn't charging properly, and looses a lot of its charge after allowing it to sit more than a few hours. Be sure the battery posts are clean as well.
Good luck!
