Question-------------------------
Followup To
Question -
HI, THE AIR CONDITIONER DOES NOT HOLD CHARGE FOR MORE THAN THREE DAYS. I NOTICED THAT THERE IS A LEAK ON THE SUCTION LINE WHICH ATTACHES TO THE FIREWALL EVAPORATOR BILLET BLOCK. I HAVE REPLACED FACTORY O-RINGS, BUT CANNOT GET THE LEAK TO STOP. THE AREA IS RIGHT BEHIND THE BATTERY AT THE FIREWALL. ANY ADVICE AS TO WHY I CANNOT GET THE LEAKING TO STOP. THANKS
Answer -
Gus,
Being that A/C lines are aluminum, the can bend, dent, and chip relatively easily. When an o-ring is replaced, the o-ring should first be coated with refrigerant oil. If the o-ring is not seated right or has insufficient lubriation, refrigerant can leak past it.
You may want to confirm to see if you have more than one leak. The most common leaks occur at the front of the car on the condenser. To truly find all leaks, you should use an ultraviolet leak dye. That will help show any obvious leaks when viewed under a blacklight. You can usually find these leak dye kits in auto parts stores.
But the best way to check for for leaks is via a refrigerant sniffer. A sniffer "breathes" in any leaking refrigerant and emits an audible tone when detected. The problem with sniffers is that they are very expensive. The are extremely sensitive and will provide false readings if not used properly. If you can, have a professional A/C repair shop do a full sweep of your A/C lines and components to find exacly where all the leaks are, and to the extent of any damage to the lines that may have caused the leak.
Good luck!
THANK YOU, DIDN,T KNOW WHERE TO RIGHT THE FOLLOW UP: THE CAR HAS ALREADY BEEN CHECKED WITH DYE AND THE CONDENSOR WAS ALSO REPLACED. THE LEAK IS RIGHT ON THE SUCTION HOSE (ALUMINUM END WITH O-RING) WHICH ATTACHES TO THE ALUMINUM BLOCK AT THE FIREWALL WHICH IS BRAZES TO THE TWO EVAPORATOR LINES. I NOTICED WHEN I TRY TO MATE THE TWO ALUMINUM PIECES TOGETHER (SUCTION HOSE ALUMINUM END AND THE EVAPORATOR ALUMINUM END) WITHOUT ANY O-RINGS OR BOLTS, THEY ARE NOT FLUSH. THERE IS CONTACT ON THE TOP END AND ABOUT A .010 GAP ON THE BOTTOM. MY THEORY IS THAT THE LINES WERE INSTALLED AND TIGHTENED AT MITSUBISHI PRIOR TO TIGHTENING THE EVAPORATOR AND THE SUCTION LINE AT THE COMPRESSOR. IN OTHER WORDS, I THINK WHEN THE SUCTION LINE WAS REMOVED A PRELOAD CONDITION EXISTED ON THE TWO MATING PARTS. WE USED FACTORY MITSUBISHI O-RINGS, BUT WITH ONLY ONE TOP BOLT TO DRAW IN THE TWO MATING PARTS, A GAPPED CONDITION EXISTS CAUSING SEEPAGE. CAN YOU LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU THINK? MY PLAN IS TO LOOSEN THE EVAPORATOR AND SUCTION HOSE FROM COMPRESSOR, AND MATE THE TWO PARTS FIRST, THUS REMOVING ANY PRELOAD WHICH MAY CAUSE THE O-RING TO NOT SET CORRECTLY. PLEASE LMK WHAT YOU THINK, THANKS....GUS
AnswerGus,
Your idea of loosening the evaporator and suction hose from the compressor may help. Though it would be a good idea to replace any o-rings on any aluminum lines that you loosen up. It's not 100% necessary, but it's good practice. If there were a load on any one part, or even if the lines were overtightened, they can bend slightly; preventing them from seating flush to one another. Because of the extreme pressure those lines are under (several hundred psi in some areas), even the slightest gap or misalignment can cause a leak. Hopefully, you'll be able to connect those lines together properly, and torque all bolts to spec.
Good luck!
