Motorcycle Repair: 1974 CB450 Honda, more questions, friction plates, clutch lever

Question
QUESTION: Hi Terry.

thanks for getting back to me.  I will eventually get to a mechanic....hopefully.  I've called a few in the area and they don't do timing for vintage bike as its difficult to get parts.  

Anyway, I need to check valve clearance.  Is it best to remove engine from bike to do this properly?  It seems tight trying with engine in place.

Thanks,

Trey

ANSWER: Hi Trey,
No, you don't need to remove the engine to check valve clearance. Yes, it's tight but possible. Be sure to clean the bike well after removing the fuel tank and whatever else is required for access and safety. If you haven't got a shop manual yet get one before you start this, it will be very important. This unit may use lock-nut/screw adjusters so you won't need any shims or special tools for them. Be very careful not to drop anything down into the engine, perhaps some well placed rags will keep out anything here.
Regards,
Terry.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------


1974 CB 450   QUESTION: thanks for getting back to me so quickly. wow!  This bike has been a learn as I go....situation.  The Clymer helps but doesn't have all the info.  I also just bought off eBay the shop manual.  If you don't mind I have a few more questions.

1. How do I know if my clutch works?  I recently replaced all the friction plates as the original were deteriorating.  I also replaced the clutch cable.  How do I know now that the clutch functions?  I recently put it in 1st gear and tried to kick start the motor.  As I was doing this, with the clutch lever engaged, the back wheel spun.  Does this mean my clutch is not activating?  If not, any suggestions?

2. As you know this bike has points. I replaced the points with OEM points.  After assembly, I noticed that the points are not being engaged as the engine turns over.  They remain completely shut, not causing the break in electricity. Suggestions? I cant imagine that the advanced ignition is warn to the point that it's not touching the pad on the points. The engine only has 5600 miles on it.

3.  Should brake fluid ever come from master cylinder set, where the brake lever sits?  I was attempting to bleed my brakes as I installed some new tubing, and brake fluid started leaking onto and from around the actual brake lever.  I am thinking I need to replace the master cylinder set. Right?

thanks again,

Trey

Answer
Hi Trey,
If the bike has been sitting a long while the clutch is stuck engaged. You will have to be sure it's in neutral when you start it and get it rolling forward before you put it in gear. Then when your moving in 1st or 2nd gear pull in the clutch lever and hold it, continue to give the bike a little gas to keep going. When the clutch does break loose you will come to a stop if the clutch lever is still in.

The points may not be gaped correctly, there is a small cam lobe on the shaft, it opens them as it turns. The points normally have a block on the back side that rubs this shaft when the lobe comes around. There also should be a "wick" mounted nearby that rubs the shaft. Put one drop of oil on the wick. The points should be set to open ~.015 inch at the maximum point of lift on the cam.

Your brake fluid leak is coming from the cylinder bore, bad. You may be able to install a rebuild kit in the master cylinder and fix this. If not a replacement master cylinder will be needed.
Regards,
Terry.