QuestionHi, my clutch on my 72 SL125 does this thing where when its cold it works fine but when the engine has warmed up and I release the clutch it sort of grabs the gear. I can't really slowly release the clutch as when it gets to the biting point it just lurches forward. When the bike it off and I have it in gear with the clutch engaged and I push the bike forward, at the biting point I can hear something like gears just brushing against each other and then it engages. This only happens when the engine is warm. Thanks.
AnswerHi John,
One of my first bikes was an SL100, tons of fun!
There are a couple of possible problems
you may be having.
One is that the clutch disks are worn out
or at least they are warped and only grabbing
at certain points on the disks.
There are metal and fibre coated disks
in the clutch. The metal ones warp and
burn. The fibre disks just wear out.
The SL125 has a very tough clutch but
can wear out eventually.
The other possible problem is that the
clutch basket that the disks sit inside
of may have some wear on the "fingers"
that the disks push against.
To repair the clutch you have to drain the
engine oil and remove the right side
clutch cover. You need a hand impact driver
to get these screws out.
Next thing is removing the oil filter rotor which
keeps the clutch from being removed.
I have two links for you that show
pictures of the oil filter rotor tool
and the clutch assembly.
The rotor may have a locking tab on it.
Just bend it back to free the nut.
Picture links:
http://jumbofiles.com/7oj98nnouaaz
http://jumbofiles.com/hbtzb2526ug6
Once the rotor is off then you remove the
four small screws on the face of the clutch.
These have the clutch springs under them
so remove them a bit at a time.
On reassembly be very gentle with
these spring bolts, if they are too tight
they can break the posts they screw into.
The posts are aluminum and if they break
you will need a new part, (not cheap)
5 or 6 ft/lbs torque maximum.
Under the spring plate is a snap ring
that holds the clutch on.
Once that is off the clutch plates can be
removed and checked for wear and warps
on a piece of glass.
They should be very flat and replace
the fibre disks if you can. The steel disks
may be bad too from what you told me.
The disks go in with a fibre plate
and then a steel plate and then so on.
With the disks out you can check the
basket fingers for wear on the sides
where the disks touch.
The basket fingers should be smooth.
You can even file them a bit if need be
or replace it.
The clutch basket is #1 in the picture.
Fibre disk or plate is #3
Steel disk or plate is #4
If you put new disks or plates in
the clutch adjuster must be set after
you put the outer case back on with
a new gasket.
It is ahead of the kickstarter,
loosen the locknut and turn the screw
out until it is free, turn it back
in or clockwise until it just
gets some resistance.
Turn it back out 1/4 turn
and lock the locknut.
Do this with some slack in the clutch
cable. Adjust the cable slack afterwards
to 1/8 free play on the lever.
Remember to add some engine oil again
and if everything is put together
carefully your clutch should work like new.
Let me know if you need more help.
Good luck!
Wayne S.
-------------------
