Motorcycle Repair: Clutch cable repair replace question, open heart surgery, phillips screw


Question
Bike is a 73 CL450 scrambler.  This is my first bike.
I am basic skills level (can use tools and know how to keep
parts neat and organized).  I have Never worked on a
motorcycle.
Went out to ride and my clutch handle moves but does
nothing.
Cable is broken or has disengaged on the inside.
My most basic part of this question is, do I have to remove
the entire engine from the bike to get to the clutch
assembly, the part I would need to either reattached if it
has come off or attach a new clutch cable if it is broken?
(most likely it is broken)
Do I need any special tools for taking the clutch apart as
far as necessary to replace the cable or are we talking
basic ratchets and screwdrivers?
Please help as I am on a limited budget and this is my only
transportation.

Answer
Robert, this is not going to be an open heart surgery experience for you.... but it isn't a walk in the park, either, usually.

See this illustration...
http://www.houseofmotorcycles.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=133770&catego...

The rearward left side cover needs to be removed to access the clutch cable end connection. If you follow the clutch cable from the handlebar down to the engine, you will see where the cable terminates into the cover. Cable connects to the clutch lifter thread #8.

The major challenges are: You may have to loosen or remove the exhaust system to access the cable/cover. It is necessary on the CL350s, but I haven't looked into a CL450 for awhile. If the pipes are higher and wider away from the cable and cover, then just leave them alone.

You probably will need a good quality impact driver to remove the screws that hold the cover in place, especially if they have never been removed since the bike was built. Steel screws in aluminum threaded holes get a really good grip on the threads. I use a LONG #3 Phillips screw bit and place it into the screw heads first, hit it smartly with a big hammer to help break up the thread corrosion, then install the bit into the impact driver to finish the job.

see: http://www.dansmc.com/impactdriver.jpg for example. Sears usually sells them, as well as many motorcycle shops.

I would probably invest in a new #10 clutch adjuster, as they get worn from lack of grease and the wear takes up a lot of the clutch cable motion before it actually begins to push on the clutch pushrod itself.

Get some heavy grease to pack into the adjuster and make sure that you don't lose the ball bearing that pushes on the clutch pushrod.

When you install the new cable, loosen the cable adjusters on both ends for maximum slack. When the left cover is reinstalled, loosen the locking bolt which allows the clutch adjuster to rotate in the case. Turn the adjuster clockwise until it stops, then just barely back it out counter-clockwise, maybe 1/16". Lock the bolt down, which keeps the adjuster from turning. Then make an initial adjustment on the lower cable adjuster, so you can fine tune the slack at the handlebar.

Bill Silver