Motorcycle Repair: 1976 CB200t, point gap, index mark

Question
Hi Mr. Johnston,

Restoring a 1976 Honda CB200t.  Got it running a few weeks ago after changing the ignition coil, plugs, battery, and points.  Also drained and re-filled the oil.  She kicks over first shot every time now.  The problem is that it's idling really fast (around 3000 RPMs).  I checked and rechecked the point gap and ignition timing  to make sure that the points open to .015 max and just start to open as the F mark aligns with the index mark.  Once I was confident I had those set right, I tried retarding the timing a hair by turning the base plate counter-clockwise.  It seemed to help initially--the bike idled at about 2000 RPMs (still a little high, i think, but when I retarded it further, the bike wouldn't start at all).  The problem at that point was that when I gave it some throttle, it revved up to about 3500 RPMs and only came down to 3000 again--and stayed there even when I was completely off the throttle.
Overall, even without having to look at the RPMs, the engine sounds like it's racing.  Assuming the timing is adjusted properly, can you think of anything else that would cause that fast idle?  I've considered that the throttle itself might be a problem (could it somehow be engaged even when it's released??); perhaps the new ignition coil I put on is putting out too much voltage??; I have the correct spark plugs, but they're resistor spark plugs--could that be a problem??  As you can see, I'm at a loss...

Another problem I'm having (not sure if it's related) is that the gears aren't shifting well--or at all.  Often, the shift pedal doesn't want to move up or down.  It's got fresh oil for the last month or so.  I was hoping that might help loosen things up, but so far it's made no difference...

Thanks!
Tony


Answer
Tony, assuming the carbs are adjusted correctly, it's probably the timing advance unit.  The springs fatigue and the ignition stays on advance too long.  It's easy to check.  Pull the advance unit out and give the cam a twist and let it go.  It should snap smartly back to the retard position.  If it doesn't the springs are worn out.  You can pinch the loops on the ends of the spring closed a little bit to increase the tension on the springs.  

The shifting problem is probably a dragging clutch.  It may need to be adjusted.  If the bike shifts easily with the engine off and hard with the engine running, it's probably the clutch needing adjustment.

Regards
Rich