QuestionI'm in Florida, bought the bike back in May, the blinkers worked fine when I first got it, then they stopped in about July. One day a few weeks after they stopped working, I came out to ride it after it had rained and they worked for a bit, then stopped again and haven't worked since. The front left blinker light stays on all the time, when I turn the blinker switch on, it goes off and none work. I don't have a shop manual to research with, am considering getting one.
Thanks for any help.
Neal
AnswerFirstly, do you know that the front signals are also running lights? You might be surprised at how many people don't. They have the same dual filament type 1157 bulbs that are used in the tail/brake light. The lower power filaments are on normally and the when you switch a turn signal on the low filament in that bulb is turned off and the high power filament flashes.
It sounds to me like the left front signal's low filament is working as it should but everything else isn't.
I would start by checking the bulbs with an ohm meter or continuity checker. The rear bulbs (1156 type single filament) should have somewhere between 0.5 and 1.0 ohms between the metal shell and the contact. The front bulbs (1157 type dual filament) should have between 0.5 and 1.0 ohms between the shell and one contact and 2 or 3 ohms between the shell and the other contact. If any bulbs have no continuity replace them.
While you are at it, make sure the fuse for that circuit is good. If you don't know which fuse it is, just turn the key on and measure the voltage between ground and each end of each fuse. If one fuse doesn't have power at both ends it needs to be replaced, even if it looks good.
If the bulbs are all OK you need to check the connections where the signals plug into the harness. The rear connections are usually under the passenger seat and the front ones are usually inside the headlight shell. Make sure everything is plugged in the way it should be - the wires are all colour codes to make it easy: green to green, light blue to light blue &c.
If the wires are all plugged in correctly the next thing to check is the flasher. Most Hondas have 2 terminal type flashers connected to a gray wire and a green/white wire. If you disconnect the wires from the flasher and connect them together, then turn the switch to either left or right, both signals on that side should light up brightly without flashing. If they do you need t replace the flasher. An ordinary automotive flasher will work. If the lights do not come on the problem is in either the switch or the wiring.
If the problem is the switch it probably just needs to be cleaned. If you don't already have contact cleaner in your shop you should get some. Contact cleaner will fix more electrical problems than your buddy who is really into wiring. ;-)
Note: You need to get real contact cleaner. WD40 is a fine product and has many uses, but it is not real contact cleaner. It leaves a sticky residue that will attract dust and you will have dirty contacts again before you know it.
You can usually clean your switches without taking anything apart. If you look at the bottoms of your switch clusters you will see that there are small holes, just the right size to accept the straw from the contact cleaner and located so that it will spray right onto the contacts.
Just spray the contact cleaner into the hole and work the switch or button vigorously several times, then turn on the key & try it. You might need to repeat the process several times before it works properly.
If you can't get it working after 3 or 4 tries you will need to take it apart.
If you find broken parts you will need to make a trip to the wreckers.
If there is just too much dirt & hardened grease in there for the contact cleaner to wash out you will need to clean it manually. Use an old toothbrush & more contact cleaner.
DO NOT use sandpaper - particles of the grit will become imbedded into the contact's surface and cause all kinds of problems.
If a contact is pitted you can dress it with a POINTS FILE. DO NOT use a regular file. POINTS FILES are designed for dressing ignition points and have the their teeth cut at the proper angle &c so that they will leave a very smooth surface.
If you intend to keep this bike on the road you will need a shop manual. Your bike is an antique and you will have a hard time finding a shop that will work on it. The sad fact is that a lot of the mechanics working now are too young to remember bikes this old and aren't interested in learning about them so that they can do a proper job. This means that you will have to do most of your own work, and working on a bike without a good shop manual is just not worth the headaches. (My bikes are from the same era - that's why I fix them myself.)
I recommend that you get two manuals - a Factory Shop Manual and a Haynes or Clymer. That way when you don't understand the explanation in one you will probably figure it out when you have read the other too.
I also recommend spending some tme on Google looking for a good forum for owners of bikes like yours. If you can't find one specifically for Ascots, try one for Shadows - the 500 Shadow has the same engine &c as the Ascot.
