QuestionMark,
While riding my bike at highway speeds, it died. I tried to start it back up but
it
quickly lost battery power, going from a starter clicking noise to nothing.
After
juicing the battery, the starter just clicked loud and it would not turn over.
Sounds like something in the ignition system however why would it have died
in
the first place? Never had a problem starting it.
Thanks,
Mike
AnswerHi Mike,
I suspect a loose battery cable may be the source of the problems.
A loose battery cable may cause the engine to stall and prevent the battery from recharging.
Check all cable ends for clean, tightly fastened connections.
I've pasted a couple of tech files below for your convenience. Please include your email address with future questions as requested and explained in my instructions for our convenience.
Respectfully,
Mark Shively
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About Starter Solenoid Problems
By Mark Shively
Battery voltage is always present at the ignition switch on most ignition systems. Current flows through the ignition switch to one side of the starter button when the ignition switch is on. Current flows across the starter button contacts to the primary windings of the starter solenoid when the starter button is depressed.
When the starter button is depressed, battery voltage passes through the solenoid’s small wire and primary windings creating a magnetic field inside the solenoid. The magnetic field attracts the high current contact (a spring-loaded T-shaped contact inside the solenoid) to move upward or downward depending upon solenoid design, and connect with the terminals on top of solenoid. When the connection is completed, high electrical current flows to the starter motor for overcoming cylinder compression, friction, and starting the engine.
If an audible click sound or repeated clicking sounds are present when the starter button is depressed, this is an indication of one or more of the following common causes:
• Weak or defective battery
• Worn starter motor brushes
• Loose battery cable connections
• Corroded connections or conductors
• Other
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Starter Solenoid Testing & Repair 101
By Mark Shively
Test the starter solenoid primary windings by isolating the solenoid from other components. Disconnect the sole-noid’s small electrical wire and leave the large wires connected. With ignition power off check the primary windings by connecting a multimeter (VOM/ohmmeter/continuity tester) to the small wire and solenoid metal body. Connect the meter’s (red) Positive test lead to the small wire. Connect the meter’s (black) Negative test lead to the solenoid’s metal body. The meter reading should indicate continuity or little resistance for the primary windings to function properly under normal starting conditions.
Test the solenoid secondary windings by listening or feeling for a “click” noise when starter button is depressed. When you hear the click, the solenoid becomes an electro-magnet. When the starter button is depressed, battery voltage passes through the small wire and primary windings creating a magnetic field inside the solenoid. The magnetic field attracts the high current contact (a spring-loaded T-shaped contact inside the solenoid) to move upward or downward depending upon solenoid design, and connect with the terminals on top of solenoid. When the connection is completed, high electrical current flows to the starter motor for overcoming cylinder compression, friction, and starting the engine.
Bench test the solenoid by removing it from the frame and connecting the solenoid small wire to a 12 VDC battery Positive terminal while grounding the solenoid body to the battery Negative terminal. Feel and listen for the solenoid to click and jump when voltage is applied. This test verifies total solenoid operation.
Disassemble, inspect, and repair solenoids, though internal parts are not available. Disassembly requires de-soldering of the small wire from the solenoid cap, and bending metal body retainer tabs to remove cap. Once se-parated and opened, clean and file the high current contacts to restore proper operation.
Electrical current arcing between contacts as contacts open and close may pit or burn the contact surfaces. This is normal wear. In severe cases, pitted and burned contacts may cause engine-starting problems.
Solenoid parts nomenclature:
• Cap
• Body
• T-contact
• Contact return spring
• Small primary winding wire
Use dielectric grease on electrical connectors such as multi-connectors and bullet type connectors. Dielectric grease helps to prevent shorting due to rain and washing and helps to prevent the formation of corrosion.
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Engine Doesn't Start, Starting Difficulty
Starter motor not rotating:
Starter lockout or neutral switch trouble
Starter motor trouble
Battery voltage low
Relays not contacting or operating
Starter button not contacting
Wiring open or shorted
Ignition switch trouble
Engine stop switch trouble
Fuse blown
Starter motor rotating but engine doesn't turn over:
Starter clutch trouble
Engine won't turn over:
Valve seizure
Cylinder, piston seizure
Connecting rod small end seizure
Connecting rod big end seizure
Transmission gear or bearing seizure
Camshaft seizure
Balancer bearing seizure
No fuel flow:
Fuel tap vacuum hose clogged
Fuel tank air vent obstructed
Fuel tap clogged
Fuel line clogged
Float valve clogged
Engine flooded:
Fuel level in carburetor float bowl too high
Float valve worn or stuck open
Starting technique faulty
(When flooded, crank the engine with the throttle fully open to allow more air to reach the engine)
No spark; spark weak:
Battery voltage low
Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted
Spark plug cap or high tension wiring trouble
Spark plug cap not in good contact
Spark plug incorrect
IC ignitor trouble
Neutral, starter lockout, or side stand switch trouble
Pickup coil trouble
Ignition coil trouble
Ignition or engine stop switch shorted
Wiring shorted or open
Fuse blown
Compression low:
Spark plug loose
Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down
Cylinder, piston worn
Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or sticking)
Piston ring/land clearance excessive
Cylinder head gasket damaged
Cylinder head warped
Valve spring broken or weak
Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, or carbon accumulation on the seating surface)
Hydraulic lash adjuster damaged (worn, seizure, or spring broken)
Hydraulic lash adjuster oil passage clogged
