Questionhow do i hook up the Throttle & Choke cable to the carburetor on a 1981 Suzuki GS850? I don't have the money to buy the manual and would like also to know why I have oil leaking from the Jugg on my 1981 Honda CM400(hondamatic). you can email me personally at tigger6969n@yahoo.com.
Thanks,
Don
AnswerDon... go to:
http://www.powersportspro.com/partsfish/login.asp
signup for free and log in, then select your bikes of choice for some illustrations of some of the parts.
Your Suzuki has two throttle cables.. one is PULL and the other one is PUSH, ensuring that there are direct cable connections to your throttle hand so the throttle doesn't get "stuck" under any conditions.
If you are connecting used cables, probably just looking at how they are bent will indicate how they were attached before. Hook up the non-adjustable cable first, which is generally for the PUSH (closing) function. You may have to fish the cable down behind the cable connection section to get it to engage with the small slot/hole for the cable end. Then, attach the PULL cable, check for excessive throttle play and adjust the cable adjusters until they are correct. Check the throttle for proper function in the open and closing directions before you put the tank back on, start the engine and check for proper idle function.
The choke cable is similar to the throttle cables. Connect the end of the cable to the choke linkage arm, then place the cable sheath in the cable holder and tighten down the locking screw. Check for complete closing of the choke and opening when you push the knob all the way down.
The CM400s often had headgasket O-ring leak issues, which after 25 years is understandable. Automatics make the engine work even harder than the manual clutch bikes, so engine oil temperatures are higher. There are sleeve-type O-ring that help seal the oil passages from the oil supply to the top end. The O-rings compress, shrink and harden with age/heat and lose their ability to keep oil from migrating through the head gasket junction. You will have to pull the motor, then the top end, replace the gaskets/O-ring sleeves and reassemble. Good time to change out the valve stem seals and valve cover gasket/grommets, too. If the engine has a lot of miles, then the rings should be changed, along with base gasket and camchain tensioners.
Maybe cleaning the leak area with brake cleaner and then applying a thin bead of oil-proof RTV may slow down the mess.
If you don't have the funds for a manual, you may not be able to afford the cost of the repairs. Parts alone will be about $100-150. If all of this sounds like language from another planet, you will need go find someone who is skilled and knowledgeble to assist you directly. Improper connection of cables or engine reassembly can be dangerous to you and your machines.
Bill Silver
