QuestionHi,
I have been trying to get my 1982 v45 magna running before
spring. I drained the gas because it had been sitting for 3 weeks
and would not start. I was going to take out the carbs and clean
them for the first time. I put a new fuel filter and new hose and
charged the battery. I decided to try it with a little spary of
starter fluid and fresh gas just to see. It didn't turn over, waited
and tryed it again. I heard a pop sound coming from the
chamber above the carbs? Ok so I waited a while longer cause
that freaked me out. I then tryed to start it again and the starter
would not stop. It kept going so I turned the ignition swicth off,
but even that did not stop it. I rushed to the battery to
disconnect it but within 30 secs it died. while it was going I
noticed some white smoke slowly coming out of the exhaust
pipe? I charged the battery and as soon as I connected it went
demonic again. I don't think the swicth is stuck. My manual says
a continous starter is a bad main relay. What do you think? I
have searched online and similar problems happen to cars and
seems that people replace lots of parts(alternator,starter, ect.)
without that fixing it.
Eager for any help
John
AnswerHi John,
Battery voltage is present to one side of the ignition switch. When the key is turned to the ON position, current flows through the switch to one side of the starter button.
When the starter button is depressed, current flows across the button contacts to the primary windings of the starter solenoid (aka: starter relay).
Voltage applied to the solenoid's windings creates an electro magnet. Magnetism draws or moves the starter solenoid's heavy-duty internal contact to connect with and conduct high current flow. High current flows from the battery, through the solenoid, and on to the starter motor.
When the starter motor rotates uncontrollably as described, the solenoid's internal contact has arced and welded itself with the fixed contacts.
The solenoid can be repaired with a little patience, tools, and help. Otherwise, replace the solenoid and any other defective parts resulting from the electrical offense.
I return tech files by email. There was no email address with your question as requested. I've cut & pasted a single file below for your convenience.
Respectfully,
Mark Shively
Starter Solenoid Testing & Repairing 101
By Mark Shively
Check the Starter Solenoid by isolating it from other components (disconnect small electrical wire). Check the primary winding by connecting a VOM (multimeter, Ohm meter, or continuity tester) to the small, 12 VDC wire. You should have continuity or little resistance (if any) when connecting meter test leads to the single wire and its metal body (ground) with engine off.
The larger terminals on the solenoid are tested by listening for the "click" sound when starter button is pressed while starting engine. What's happening when you hear the click is the solenoid is an electro-magnet. When the starter button is depressed, battery voltage through the small wire creates a magnet effect inside the solenoid. This attracts the high current contact (a spring loaded T-shaped contact inside the solenoid) to travel upwards and connect with the two large exterior terminals on top of solenoid (heavy cable leads 10 gauge wire). When this connection is completed, current flows to the starter motor for starting engine.
Another bench testing method is to connect the solenoid's small 12 VDC lead to a 12 VDC battery source while grounding the solenoid body. Watch, feel, and listen for the solenoid "click and jump" when voltage is applied. This test verifies total solenoid performance.
High current contacts may become pitted or burned by arcing. This is normal wear. In severe cases, pitted and burned contacts may cause starting problems. The solenoid may be disassembled, inspected, and repaired, though internal parts are not sold separately. Disassembly requires de-soldering and re-soldering of the small wire from the solenoid cap, and bending metal retainer tabs before cap removal is possible. Once separated and opened, clean and file the contacts to restore performance. There are only a few parts to the solenoid; cap, body, T-contact, and contact return spring (not counting primary wire).
I prefer to use dielectric grease on electrical connections such as multi-connectors and bullet type connectors. Dielectric grease helps to prevent shorting due to rain and washing. It also helps to prevent formation of corrosion.
