Motorcycle Repair: CB 350G electricals, vent holes, clymer manuals


Question
Since my '73 CB 350G runs on one cylinder & then the other, & the factory and Clymer manuals have no multimeter tests/procedures for the coil, condenser, regulator, stator, and rectifier, (and the battery-top of the line JC Whitney-& points are new + properly adjusted), I was wondering whether you could suggest basic tests/acceptable values for these parts.

Answer
Roger, clean spark advancer, then clean and reset the points and timing. Watch the points to see if there is excessive arcing across either set, indicating a bad or loosely connected condenser. Check all the wiring connections under the fuel tank where the coils are connected.
If you can verify that the charging system is keeping the battery above 12.5 volts, then you can eliminate the extra steps of the charging system. More info at www.electrexusa.com on test procedures for charging systems.
The charging system has an oil cooled stator which seldom fails. Check wiring out for continuity between stator segments and NO grounds to the stator base. The rectifier can be checked across the diode leads by alternating the ohm meter test leads to check for continuity one direction and very high resistance the other. There is a small current regulator mounted to the back of the battery box that in not really easily tested. If charging system output is low, disconnect it and see if it rebounds.
Coil ohms are usually around 4.5 on the primary side. Check spark plug caps for around 5k ohms resistance. Don't use resistor plugs in conjunction with the caps.

I would really check the fuel system, as the petcocks get blocked and have uneven flow to the carbs under certain conditions. Be sure that the gas cap vent holes are clear, the tank is clean inside and the carbs are clean, as well. These carbs have a diaphragm on top that can get tears in them causing problems. The jet sets and emulsion tubes need to be spotless inside, as well.
Bill Silver