QuestionHey Falcon,
I'm very frustrated...My bike has been in the shop more than it's been on the road. 2 problems. Front brakes, and what I thought was the battery. I think I've been given the run around because I'm a woman but anyways...Front brakes give out intermittently (I can squeeze it all the way to the handle) and I'll have to pump/squeeze them to make them full again. I took it into the shop, it was there for a week and a half, went to pick it up, rode off the lot and the front brakes still give out...they said they bled them twice but that "maybe it might be a problem witht he master cylinder?" also, my battery kept dying and after 4 trips to the shop and getting stuck out in the street, they are now saying it's the regulator and the stater? what do you think? also, if you are in the US, do you know a reputable place I can get this fixed in the NY metropolitan area?
Thanks!
Tabeier
AnswerHi Tabeier.
As a matter of fact, I am in the U.S. and I know what your problems are. Your first problem is that you are taking the bike to a shop where they are either a) taking you for a ride because they are incompetent, b) taking you for a ride because they are crooked, or c) accidentally taking you for a ride because they are incompetent but reasonably honest.
First, let's deal with the brakes. Easy fix that the "parts changers" that you have been taking the bike to are either unwilling or too incompetent to fix.
You can do this one at home with the bike's tool kit and a rag.
Bleeding brakes, as you know, is not a complicated thing and it works to get air bubbles out of the line.
But, here's the part they don't tell you (which is also not mentioned in any repair manual);
Some bikes have an additional problem with both the hydraulic clutch and front brakes, including my own on my V65 Magna. The problem stems from the configuration of the master cylinder, which is that the connection to the hydraulic line at the master cylinder is higher up than the master cylinder itself, thus creating a pocket that air bubbles like to hide in (this is called a reverse trap) and the method for bleeding that section is a little tricky if you've never done it before.
Here's the proceedure;
1) Bleed the clutch/brake line like normal. In your case, this part has been done.
2) Put a wrench on the banjo fitting (the nut on the master cylinder that connects the hydraulic line to the master cylinder) and squeeze the lever.
3) (NOTE: Use a box end wrench for this, preferably) While holding the clutch/brake lever in, crack loose the fitting and reclose it quickly. Have a rag over the fitting connection that you are working on because it will spit at you as pressure expells the air and a little fluid.
<<<<<<<IMPORTANT NOTE: DO NOT release pressure on the lever till the fitting is tightened back up or you will suck air back into the line.>>>>>>>
4) Test the clutch/brake again. If done correctly, you will have pressure near or at the beginning of the lever movement rather than at the end or nt at all.
5) repeat as needed, but you should not need more than 2-3 times to get the system working correctly.
That is for the brakes.
As far as the charging system is concerned, the stator is what is bad. Either that or you have a short in the charging system. The regulator/rectifier almost NEVER goes bad. And never on a 2 year old bike. With the repair manual in hand, you can even replace that yourself. It is a fairly easy fix.
You should get yourself a repair manual for the bike and learn to do as much of the analysis and repair work as possible yourself. It will save you a lot of money and problems down the road.
Now as far as shops in the NY metro area, I wouldn't even be able to venture a remote guess. Now if you were in South FL, I could tell you of at least 3 great shops to go to. What i suggest that you do is talk to as many other riders as you can. Ask their opinions of the shop you are going to and what other shops that they would recommend.
Good luck.
FALCON
