Motorcycle Repair: Charging system, bridge rectifier, ac volts

Question
Hello! Thank you for this service.

I have a 1968 Honda CL175K0 Scambler and the battery is not charging. I performed all the tests the book showed. I checked the continuity between each pair of leads coming from the stator. It says "If resistance between any pair of leads differs greatly from that specified in table 3 replace the stator."

This is table "3's", Test points;     Resistance;
                  
                    Yellow - pink       1.1 ohm

                    Pink - white        0.5 ohm

MY Stator Test Results;
                   
                  Yellow - pink    2.1 ohm

                  Pink - white     0.5 ohm
 
  As you can see the ohm reading between the yellow and pink wires is a little higher than the book shows it should be, But does one Ohm Difference "DIFFER GREATLY" ? Should I replace the stator?

 One other question, How can you tell if the alternator rotor is still magnetised?

 This motorcycle does not have a regulator. It does have a bridge rectifier which checked out ok.

Thanks again.

Answer
Stators seldom fail and if they do, they will go open rather than to higher resistance values. A simple test is to use a 12v test light, start the bike and let it idle.
Test each leg of the stator to ground. Generally the pink one is twice the voltage output of the other leads. DO NOT rev up the motor, as the AC volts will blow out the bulb...

The test you mention is fine for testing for internal open circuits, but I wouldn't replace the stator for a 1 ohm variance at this point.

Get a wiring diagram so you can see the bigger picture of your charging system. I think they still had selenium rectifiers then, which are easily damaged by running the engine with a dead/no battery scenario.

Note that when the light switch is turned on, the pink stator lead is connected electrically to another stator wire to boost output.

Fully charge the battery and clean all terminals, especially anything to do with the charging system and lighting system. Watch battery voltage when lights are ON and OFF, to see if the charging system can keep up from about 3500 rpm and on. If not:
Check stator output, rectifier for any shorted/open diode sections, switch wiring and switches associated with the headlight circuits. If you see a small metal box with two wires sticking out, there may be a voltage regulator in this system. Disconnect the leads and see if the voltage comes up. You may be able to run without it connected.

Rotors are magnetic and any small wrench should stick to it fairly firmly.

A weak magnetic field on a rotor is a possible cause for charging system low output, but is somewhat uncommon...

Bill Silver