QuestionQUESTION: Bare with me, becuase I want to make sure that I mention any little thing that may give you a better idea of what's going on here.
Okay. It all started when winter came around (here in Ohio it gets VERY cold- this was the first 'below freezing' night). I started my car up one, and turn my headlights on. My headlights immediately dimmed and flickered a bit. Then my passenger side light when out, leaving the driver's side on but dim. I turned them both off, then back on... and it switched to my driver's side light being off and the other on- but not dim. Both headlights work correctly when on bright. I don't believe the lights have ever been replaced.
There has been no change in my headlights since then.
Tonight I was driving back home and came to a stop light. There is snow on the ground, so I was pumping the brakes a bit so as not to slide... when my car did this jerking sensation and slowly stalled out at the red light. I tried to start it up, but while it sounded like she'd turn.. she wouldn't catch and stay running. There was also a 'warbling' feeling while I was trying to start her, towards the passenger side. Now, I was told it could have just been the engine trying to start, but I don't seem to remember her doing that last time (I had to replace the battery about 2 years ago).
There has also been a clicking noise (like a thick card in the spokes of a bike wheel) when I turn. If I excellerate into the turn, it gets louder and faster (like a card in a bike wheel would). I was told I needed to get my CV joints replaced. I'm currently looking into this problem, but wanted to include it for your info.
We popped the hood and didn't see much of anything, except for some corrosion on the battery. We sprayed some of that off. Then we tried jumper cables to get her started. Again, she wouldn't 'catch' and stay running... but she turned over. At this time, by the way, my power windows, lights, inside light, radio, heater/ac, etc were still able to run. I cut them off when trying to start, of course.. but I did check them, just to make sure. And all of my lights (engine light, brake light, etc) lit up when I stalled. My brakes and steering wheel locked up as well.
Roughly 30 minutes later, my car started right back up. I didn't experience any more troubles driving her home. However, when I got home and shut the car off, I tried to see if she's start again. When I turned the key she took a while to start, just turning for a good 30 seconds.. and then finally roared to life.
Oh, and now I find that one of my rear brake lights are out. I'm not sure if these could be connected in anyway, but I thought I'd mention it, just in case.
If you could offer any insight into this is would be very greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance for lending your time and knowledge.
- Cris
ANSWER: Cris,
First, the headlight switch needs to be replaced to correct the light problem.
The click when you turn is probably a CV joint and that driveshaft will need to be replaced.
The slow start could be the corroded battery cables. I would go to Autozone or Checker and have them do a free electrical load test. They bring their tester to the car.
The car not running properly could be one of many things. I would check the codes and see what the computer says. autozone or Checker will read the codes for free too. Email me back with what they find.
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: And the story continues.
So, since the last message, I've taken my car into the dealer. They've ran a start up diagnostic on it twice now. The first time, the found nothing. The second time, I made perfectly clear that it needed to run 25-30 minutes for it to stall. They found nothing in the test, and still... could not duplicate it stalling.
After the second time, they told me that there was oil in one of the cylinders and that they'd cleaned that out, as well as recommended new spark plugs for the car.
I bought new plugs. I installed them.
The car still stalled.
Frustrated, I searched around online and found people speaking on problems with their distributor caps and rotors.. and they had the same symptoms as me. Curious if this would work, I bought a new cap and rotor for my distributor. I also went ahead and bought a new fuel filter, since the one on my car looked as if it were the original... and I thought maybe that could be it.
Several people I talk to either throw out 'ignition module' or 'fuel sending unit'. But, I've also heard that the ignition module issues are usually on GMs and such, not Nissans. And a fuel pump is a bit pricey to be buying it as a guesstimate.
Anyway, I installed the cap, rotor, and filter. Other than the fact that my car turns over less when it DOES start now... it still stalls on me after 30 minutes!
I spoke with the dealer. They offered to run the same diagnostic test again, free of charge. However, I'm wondering if I am wasting my time with them now. Yes, it's free... but are they being thorough enough? I gave them sure fire instructions on how to make it stall; and they couldn't. It words EVERY TIME for me. Also, my d. cap was full of build up, and my d. rotor was pretty worn. Why wouldn't they have spotted and mentioned that the first two times?
I'm at a loss with what to do. The dealer found no codes on the car's computer. They could not duplicate the stalling. They don't offer any other ideas except more 'start up diagnostics'.
What do you think it could be? And what would be the most effective way to go about fixing it- or even finding out HOW?
Thanks for your time,
Cris
AnswerCris,
Dealers are into making money and taking as little time with the customer as possible. A good dealership is difficult to find. Nissan is usually better than this. I think you have a defective distributor from what you have said. Now, there is a little transistorized ignition module under the hood but on Nissan's they are usually perfect. I would think you would have a code? A multiple cylinder misfire or something like that. But, remove the cap, rotor, rotor post and cover and look at the optical shutter wheel. If there is oil replace the distributor.
