Nissan Repair: Nissan - ka24eI4, performance friction, scotch brite


Question
QUESTION: Hi Rob,

I have a 91 year Nissan, 2.4L, about 190,000km, Engine Model KA24EI4.

The problem 1: When the car is cold, it seems to go to stall (the RPM gauge back to very low)  when I stop the car in front of the traffic light. but when driving it is good,and stall nerve indeeded happen.And I have noticed when the car warm up enough, evrything is ok. what could cause this problem.

Problem 2: the ignition distributor leaking oil but still works good. Is it possible to fix it and what parts I need to buy for fix it. Where is the O ring? it is plastic or metal.

problem 3: the calipper slides can not move freely. What is the affection if I donot change them. Could it cause bad gas consumption?

Thanks for your time



ANSWER: Rob,

The cold start sensor is probably defective since it does not idle properly when cold.

The distributor should be replaced with a rebuilt unit unless you can get the dealer to sell you a seal for the shaft.  Make sure the bushing in the bottom of the distributor is not worn or the new seal will leak.  I have given up rebuilding and just use rebuilts myself.

If the caliper slides are sticking disassemble them and use a wire wheel on the slide surfaces and steel wool or a scotch brite on the slide surfaces to get them to move and not stick.  Yes, dragging brakes will hurt mileage.  Also, is you are going to get a set of pads try Performance Friction Carbon Metallic from Autozone or Checker.  Otherwise, Nissan pads are great and you can save a bundle by purchasing them, on-line, from courtesynissan.com  That is, if you do not live in Texas, or you will end up paying sales tax.  But, they sell parts for Jobber which is way under the list price at your local dealer.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: THANKS but where is the cold start sensor.

I changed Temperature Coolant Sensor one month ago. I have found one sensor which is next to the coolant sensor but it is connected to the temperature gauge (When i disconnect the wire then temperature gauge doesnot work).

Sorry for taken up your time again.

Thanks

ANSWER: Rob,

There should be several sensors for temperature on your engine.  One is for the gauge, one is for the fan and another is for the computer to read.  The one for the computer is the one you want to check and possibly replace.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: But there are just two sensors there

One is to the gauge. I replaced the other one - Coolant Temperature sensor because the fan didnot work in one month ago.  

And I can start the car very smoothly even when the car is in cold. but a little later and before the car not warmed enough (the temperaute gague raised to C Level), the car seems to be stall. But after the car warmed enough, everything is OK.

Really need your suggestion again


Answer
Rob,

If the sensor was replaced and the computer sends the signal for cold start operation and it is not happening then we nee dto look at what it is that is not richening up the mix.  Yours does not have an extra injector to simulate a rich condition like a choke.  It uses longer injector pulse widths to get the rich condition.  You could use a Noid light or a volt/ohm meter and check the injector pulse width both cold and warm and see if there is any difference.  I would hate to say it but it seems to point to the ECM not prolonging the injector pulse width when cold.  And, I would not want to tell you to purchase an ECM without first doing a diagnostic to see if that is the problem.  Check the injector pulse width first and email me back with what you find.  I will do some research on your specific fuel management system and email you back.