QuestionHello Alex,
Well I have finally got the transmission back together. I was wondering if you could clarify something. I have read in several places on the Internet that these transmissions should not use any fluid that is gl-5 rated. They say that gl-5 has chemicals in it that are corrosive and will destroy the synchronizers. Have you heard of this? I know that the Haynes manual that I am using recommends GL-4 but most parts store do not carry straight GL-4. Some sites even recommend Redline-90 synthetic GL-4, which is pricey. I don't mind the cost if that is what I need. The dealership is not much help on this matter, the service department recommended ATF. Thanks again. Alan
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Thanks again alex, I will keep all you said in mind. Do you know what type of sealant is used to seal the cases? I have red high-temp silicone RTV, will this be sufficient? I purchased the bearing and will begin disassembling the shafts tomorrow.
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Thanks for the suggestion. I have since pulled the transmission and found a damper spring has broken away from the clutch disc. In the process of draining the transmission I found metal attached to the drain plug. I disassembled the transmission and found that the countershaft bearing in the adapter plate has lost the sides of the bearing that hold in the ball bearings. I had the transmission rebuild at 80k. The truck now has 149k. I have found no internal damage to the gears. Would you suggest replacing only the bad bearing? If so would you recommend any online transmission part websites.
Thanks again.
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I own a 1996 Nissan XE 4X4, the other day I was exiting the freeway and was stopped at the top of the exit ramp. When the light turned green the transmission would not go in to any gear. There was no prior symptoms. I fought with it and I was finally able to get it into gear, but it would grind and was hard to change gears. The pedal felt a bit harder than before. I checked the hydraulic system and the fuild is full, but has a little fresh seepage around the reservoir. I measured the travel on the slave cylinder and it is about 0.5 inches. I just want to be sure it is not external before I go the the trouble of pulling the transmission. Thanks for any suggestions you might have.
Answer -
Change the slave and master cylinder for the clutch and bleed the system and you should be fine.
Answer -
Alex,
Yes, replace the bearing and race. Also, be sure to clean the transmission with a good cleaner that will not leave residue. If you have a parts cleaner that would be great. But, if not use brake cleaner and spray the parts down to be sure to get all the metal out. Also, be sure not to spin any of the bearings with air pressure from an air hose. If you want to blow the bearings off be sure to hold them so they will not spin.
Answer -
Alex,
Red RTV sealant is fine. Just be sure not to use so much that is will seep into the transmission when you put it back together. A good bead of sealant is fine. The only thing on engines these days that require special sealant are those that have to do with the engine as they have to be sensor safe. On the transmission it does not matter and for that matter I have seen many transmissions that have red sealer from the factory. Oh, be sure to clean off all the old sealer before you seal up yours.
AnswerAlex,
Yes, use the GL-4 as the GL-5 is too thick and that is what really takes out the syncros. Yes, the boneheads at the dealer are too cheap to stock the GL-4 and I have found three different dealerships in the Las Vegas area that do not have the GL-4 even though Nissan says that it will void the warranty if they do not install it when they do warranty work. I would go with the synthetic GL-4 if it were mine and in fact I have a 350Z that I use it in.
