Pontiac Repair: 1997 Grand AM GT 2.4L Automatic, digital volt meter, grand am gt

Question
QUESTION: I have a 1997 Grand AM that will not start. I have replaced the fuel pump, battery, and spark plugs. I have read about the PassLock procedure extensively as well. Currently the vehicled appears to have No Spark or No fuel. I tried to have the ignition module tested, but no one appears to have the correct equipment to test it. At this time it seems to me the only issues would be a bad computer ( I ran several tests using a Snap On diagnostic tool that sent no codes and correctly turned on solenoids and relays), a bad ignitional module, or a bad ignition switch ( I have tried testing the pump to see if 12V is there when the vehicle is being turn on. I'm not sure if I tested correctly, but I didn't see 12V). Please help me if you can my wife wants the car towed to the dealer and I'm not looking to keep putting money into this car.

Thank you

ANSWER: Hey chris:

if the cas doesn't have spark or fuel pressure it can be multiple things. when you turn the key to run there should be power back at the pump for about a second and then again whenyou are cranking the car. the power feed to the pump is the Grey wire back at the pump. and the ground is black. you have to check at the connector in the body where the pump sending unit pluggs in. if not the you have to trace the now power or ground back to where your loosing it. With the key on you should have power at the ignition module as well it would be either a pink or pink with a black tracer. if you don't have power at the ignition module you could have a blown fuse or a power issue. Yes you could have a bad ignition switch. That is not all that uncommon on that car especially if it has a ton of miles on it. turn the key to run and use a digital volt meter and check for battery voltage on the fuses. if you have less than what battery voltage is you have an issue with high resistance in the contacts of the ignition switch. You may also want to check for volaage when you tunr the key to crank as well. Remember when the car is cranking the voltage will drop slightly due to the starter motor using some of the voltage up but it should be much less.  if you have battery voltage on all the fuses the other issue could be a ground problem. That car has issues withe ground wires for the computer corroding or breaking off. there are some on the lower transmission to engine mounting bolts on the front side of the car and also there is a big ground on the engine block by the oil filter. those are the most common places to look. Good luck :)


---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Todd,

Thanks for your advice. I now know I have an electrical issue. The voltage running to the ignition module is 4.6 volts(with the ignition on). When the switch is set to the run position I have the proper voltage on several fuses, but roughly 5.6V on all others that appear to be dependant on the ignition switch. Is there a good way to test the ignition switch before I replace it? Also, if I'm losing power to the fuses direct is there something else it can be? I've ran multiple tests with the Snap-on diagnostic tool and everything appeared to work properly. I've questioned the computer as well, is there a good way to test the computer?

Once again thanks for your help!!!

Answer
I think you found the problem! I'd say it's the ignition switch! but to make sure check the power feeds into the switch. ther are usually 2 of them and they are red in color if you have 12 volts in and 4-5 out the switch is junk. Check the power in to the switch with the key on that way the circuits are loaded up. If you do not have battery voltage on the battery feeds to the switch you have to start tracing them back from the switch maybe you have a corroded wire somewhere. I douby it's a computer issue. If you don't have full battery volatge to any of them all kinds of wierd things happen!