QuestionQUESTION: Few years ago I bought riding mower Troy Bild 13AD609G063 with Briggs Stratton 311777 type 148-E1 engine 17.5 HP –
It had minor issues (or so I thought) but it would start easy and run.
After a short time, it would start emitting white smoke and eventually would foul the pug with oil and oil would gush through the breather to the carb and kill it.
Compression check reviled good valves, and leak through the piston rings so I bought a set and took the engine apart to replace them.
I assembled the engine, put a new carb spark plug etc and now, engine wouldn’t start! It would crank but no start.
I’ve tried repeatedly to adjust the valve timing (as per manual) and I’m sure I know which is intake (lower) and exhaust valve (upper) also, exhaust lifter (rod) is steel as opposed to Al for intake.
However, I might be wrong there as I read somehwere that some engines have intake Vale on top...
Am I correct?
I am sure, when assembling the engine; I aligned the mark on gears (camshaft had a hole, IIRC). Cranking the engine, I get the spark on the spark plug. I believe carb provides the fuel too.
I am at loss and have no idea what to do and what should I look at. I’m at point of just dumping it or, again taking the engine apart for one final look.
Could you please help?
Thank you
Igor
ANSWER: The intake valve is on the carburetor...I believe it is the top valve...hard to see in the drawing.
The exhaust valve is on the muffler side of the head.
What did you set the valve clearances at? Intake? Exhaust?
Did you download the engine service manual? All you have to do is Google "Briggs and Stratton OHV manual"...use Google, NOT Bing.
http://www.ccdist.com/_serviceManuals/briggs/276781.pdf
Eric
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QUESTION: Eric,
Yes, I have a PDF of this manual. Thanks.
I adjusted valves as per spec, .004” (intake) and .006” exhaust valve.
Looking at valve yesterday, I am sure Top Valve is Exhaust (adjacent to manifold) and bottom is intake as the I can trace intake manifold path to it.
I’ve tried lifters on both locations, though but now replaced them back, correctly.
I am not sure what to do next. I’ll have to check a carb again as it is not set- I needed to start the engine first. I might try carb cleaner fluid into the cylinder first to eliminate that as I think I’ve tried that with lifters reversed .
Running out of ideas but I must overlooked something simple
Thank you
ANSWER: Instead of carb cleaner you can use a primer bottle and gas. I use a plastic bottle with a tapered tip, like the old style diner ketchup bottles. Bought the bottle at Wal-Mart in the cooking section for about a dollar.
Even with the carburetor off, you should be able to prime the engine via the intake manifold and get the engine to at least try to start. This way you know the compression, ignition and mechanical timing are correct, and you have spark...this only leaves fuel as the issue.
If the engine will not even pop by priming then you may not have compression, the mechanical timing (cam/crank) is not correct, or the ignition timing (flywheel key) could be the problem.
Let me me know if the engine tries to start when priming.
Eric
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QUESTION: Eric,
Well
I finally tried again, with raw fuel into the intake (manifold/carb was removed).
It wouldn't start at all!
I must sat that on occasion, it would POP or so like it did with carb installed and fuel connected.
There is definitely compression and I've also checked it with the compression gauge tool.
So,, as you said issue might be spark timing or cam to crank (which I am almost sure I've done well).
I am not sure what controls the spark timing? Just the flywheel with the key?
I should fine dime to look at that this weekend, I hope.
What do you suggest next?
I would like to avoid taking engine apart again but if that's what it takes...
Thank you
AnswerSpark timing is controlled by the flywheel key...not much you can do...just make sure the key is not sheared.
To assist with cam/crank timing you an check for valve overlap. The valve overlap will provide an indication of the mechanical timing.
Eric
