QuestionQUESTION: Hello,
I just bought a used Yard Machine Tiller, about 12 years old.
It is running a Briggs and Stratton 5.5 hp motor. ( I think this is in the Vertical position)
Motor Model: 135202
Motor Type: 1259-E1
Motor Code 971215YB
Issue: Motor Stays at idle regardless of Throttle lever Position (exception of course is the off position...that works)
I purchased and it would not start unless you poured gas into the carb. (I figured out that there were a couple linkages that needed replacing or adjusting)
Now, the tiller will start on the 2nd pull (first one with Choke).
It will run however, it stays at idle. My first thought is that there was something not connected so I started playing with the Governor and throttle linkages.
When you move the Throttle the linkages all appear to be attached. (however there are a couple below the Gas tank and behind a plate that you can't easily see....though still everything appears to be attached.)
But when you move the throttle to the WOT position the linkages coming back up from the Engine Governor never move.
Now in making the assumption that there is just a missing link...then by moving the flutter valves manually on top of the Carb should allow the motor to speed up (however this does not work).
I found a blog earlier and a person indicated that this motor could have an internal governor issue as they sometimes jump off of their shaft(or something like that).
However, the person that was having a problem with theirs the motor was revved up and would not come down...they later posted that they had a badly scoured Cylinder (not sure how that would cause the problem but they never mentioned their findings on the governor)
I am hoping to start taking things apart tomorrow so that I can check the linkages behind the gas tank but I am curious as to if this is something that i am going to need to bust the motor open to take a look at the inside (or if you have any other suggestions they are much appreciated)
Govenor
carb
ANSWER: Neil
This engine does not have a internal governor,all control's are on the outside. This engine is also used as a engine on snow blowers & the carb controls are pretty extensive depending on the equipment.There is no speed controls for this engine it all works off the load put on the engine.I have some picture files I can send you but are only allowed to send you 2. They show you the control parts for the carb and may help you identify where they go.If you need more help you can do a follow up to ask me another question.
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
Throttle and Governor
QUESTION: Hey Ben, Thank you for the information. I think it eliminated some but still have some work to do to get this thing running right. I have some additional information that I hope(think) might help.
So here goes:
1. Crank her up
a.can back the throttle of a smidge but not all the way.
2. Runs about idle speed
a.move the Throttle lever and nothing happens
b.you can see the linkage working going to the bottom of the gas tank but the linkage coming back up does not move. (not sure why - this is why I was thinking maybe the governor gear inside the crankcase had jumped its shaft.)
c.So ignoring that linkage not working...tried to manually move the butterfly valve on top of the Carb (no discernible change)
3. She runs a little rough at this idle and give enough black smoke to start sooting up the outside edge of the muffler(thought here is that it is too rich)(no real fowling on the new spark plug though)
a.Attempted adjusting the Idle Screw clockwise 1 turn (maybe a slight change in the sound...but maybe that is just wishful thinking)
As for the images you provided and the others that you still have....If it is from the Briggs site on parts I probably have it downloaded already, that is how I started ordering some of my parts so I recognized your images straight off.
Last night I pulled the Tank and carb (still connected to each other) off so that I could get a look at the linkages behind the tank.
-could not really find any issues there...everything looks to be in pretty good condition and connected correctly.
My thoughts and ideas at this point (feel free to shoot these down if they are incorrect)
1. since I have pulled the tank and carb
a.go ahead and do a general carb rebuild
b.change the diaphragm and the idle screw (brass was really soft when I turned it so it only has so much life left-though currently still functional)
2. while ordering parts order a new crankcase gasket and pop her open to make certain the plastic governor gear is still seated (shoot me down on this if I am just chasing my tail here)
3. adjust the governor arm.
a.I saw another post on here were a guy removed the governor arm when changing out an engine onto a tiller. so I was tempted to follow those direction and attempt to set the governor to the throttle.
b.The reason that I was thinking about this is due to the 2.b. in my description above (the linkage going down to the governor arm works when you move the throttle lever to WOT but there is no change in the linkage coming back up from the governor arm...so the butterfly valve never moves) assume here that all linkages and springs are attached correctly.
c. Also note that after removing Tank/Carb you can easily access the governor arm....it will kinda flip up and down easily....not sure if it should have any tension(based on all descriptions I could find it should move pretty easily because it is not really ever engaged until the gear inside is moving at a high enough speed to push on it.
ANSWER: Neil
I think at this point replacing the carburetor may be your best bet,somehow the fuel ports are not allowing fuel to enter the engine and do its job. The cost of the carburetor BS,498298
CARBURETOR VS spending a lot of time and aggregation is not worth it.We carry them in stock if you need them
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Hey Ben,
With the description that I left and the things that I stated I was thinking of trying.....you were unable to come up with anything other than three sentences telling be to buy stuff from you?
Little disappointed in your response.
YOUR RESPONSE summed up in my mind: IT'S BROKE, DON'T WASTE YOUR TIME TRYING, JUST BUY A NEW CARB....OH YEA AND BY THE WAY I SELL THEM.
My response to you is GRRRRRR.
So I did check out the website that came up after your post.....no carb to be found with that part number.
I did find it on Amazon for $67 and change.
Since I was annoyed at your apparent lack of care, or whatever I promptly ignored your advice and decided to try what I had already mentioned.
And what do you think I found......as soon as I pulled off that little cover for the diaphragm I saw the problem.(but then again you probably knew that already)
Got a Diaphragm for 4 bucks and replaced it. I know....your not going to believe this, but everything now works like a dream...some fine tuning and she purrs. (so much for your advice of buy a carb from my website)
For anyone else that decides to read this epic....the diaphragm is probably as easy to replace as the air filter and you don't have to take the whole thing apart to do it. More important....it is only 4 star screws and you can quickly get a visual to see if there is a need to replace it.
AnswerNeil
First of all I never asked you to buy a carburetor from me! Here is what I wrote
"ANSWER: Neil
I think at this point replacing the carburetor may be your best bet,somehow the fuel ports are not allowing fuel to enter the engine and do its job. The cost of the carburetor BS,498298
CARBURETOR VS spending a lot of time and aggregation is not worth it.We carry them in stock if you need them "
All I said was that we carry them! Second of all we are not a means of fixing a problem when we can only get facts from the consumer,in most cases they are pretty vague what you were telling me was guesses on what you thought "it will run however, it stays at idle. My first thought is that there was something not connected so I started playing with the Governor and throttle linkages.
When you move the Throttle the linkages all appear to be attached. (however there are a couple below the Gas tank and behind a plate that you can't easily see....though still everything appears to be attached.)
But when you move the throttle to the WOT position the linkages coming back up from the Engine Governor never move.
Now in making the assumption that there is just a missing link...then by moving the flutter valves manually on top of the Carb should allow the motor to speed up (however this does not work).
I found a blog earlier and a person indicated that this motor could have an internal governor issue as they sometimes jump off of their shaft(or something like that)." in fact had you have a pro look at it I am sure it could have been fixed for less time you wasted on trying to get it done for free,I may seem also harsh and annoyed what do you expect for free, me to drive to your house and fix it for you,everyone today needs to save money and it is fine to ask questions I also see you got no response from the other sites you asked the same question to. "yes we pros know all the duplicate questions people ask I was trying to help you,do you think I get paid for this! No we do it for free so what the hell is the big deal if we offer to sell you a product? I can see if that was the first thing I told you after you asked me what is wrong,we do research I sent you pictures of break downs oh yeah that was my way of trying to make a small profit.
