QuestionQUESTION: I have a 1642HS John Deere Saber w/ a 16hp Briggs & Stratton Engine. I can start the engine & it will run for a few minutes then start to sputter & stall like it is loosing fuel. I have drained the tank cleaned the lines, replaced the fuel filter, replaced the carb, replaced the air filter, & replaced the spark plug. Could this be an ignition problem? Maybe a ignition coil/magneto going bad causing weak spark? Or something else?
ANSWER: Hello Nick:
>>How Long is a Few Minutes?
>>As Soon As the Engine Stopps Running, Check the Spark Plug For Fire.
>>Is the Engine Turning Correctly when the Starter is Turning it?
>>Did you Change the Spring Style Hose Clamps to the Screw Style Hose Clamps?
>>Check the Carburetor Solenoid on the Bottom ot the Carburetor Bowl.
>>The Following is a Basic Instruction File I made for Checking the Carburetor Solenoid. Any Input is Appreciated.
>>**Check for Current/Voltage (10.5 VDC Minimum) to the Carburetor Shut Off Solenoid. If the Carburetor Shut Off Solenoid has Current, then On Some Solenoids you can Remove the Needle and Replace the Solenoid to Test them.
>>****PLEASE DO NOT OPERATE THE MOWER WITH THE SOLENOID BYPASSED IN THIS MANNER. THIS IS "ONLY" FOR TESTING.****
>>For Others, Remove the Carburetor Solenoid and Go to the Hardware Store. Purchase a Bolt of the Same Diameter and Threads. It Needs to be 1/2" to 3/4" Long for the Horizontal Mount Solenoids and 1/4" to 1/2" Long for the Vertical Mount Solenoids. Put this Bolt in Place of the Solenoid. If this Corrects the Engine Problem, then Replace the Solenoid.
>>***NOTE: THIS IS FOR CHECKING THE SOLENOID ONLY I NEVER SUGGEST YOU OPERATE THE ENGINE WITH THE SOLENOID OUT OF THE CARBURETOR EXCEPT FOR TESTING PURPOSES***
>>Sometimes the Plunger is Moving, Just Not Far Enough to Allow the Gas to Enter the Jet Properly.** **Use 440 Wet Dry Sand Paper and Engine Oil to Clean the Pin. Wet the Sand Paper with Oil Until it is Flexible and then Lightly Polish the Pin. There is Some Slop/Free Play in the Solenoid Pin. Usually the Electromagnet is Simply Not Pulling the Pin as it Should or there is a Small Bur on the Pin. Use 440 Wet Dry Sand Paper and Engine Oil to Clean the Pin. Wet the Sand Paper with Oil Until it is Flexible and then Lightly Polish the Pin. Clean and Lightly Oil the Pin before Inserting it Back into the Solenoid. Just a Film of Oil is All it Takes.**
>>If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I Hope to be Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 3 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Follow Up Questions are Received Anytime. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
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QUESTION: Hello John, the engine will run for maybe 5 min. then sputter & die. Sometimes I can immediatly fire it back up in at med. to high throttle or normally fully choked, but it will only run for maybe 1-2 min. if that & die. So I would assume that I'm still getting spark. I just don't know if it is a weak spark. Yes the engine is turning correctly when starting. No I did not switch out the spring clamps for the screw type. The spring style is what was providd to me from the dealer w/ the carb. A new solenoid also came on the carb as well. Not to say that it couldn't possibly be bad, but these symptom where occuring w/ the old carb on too. When turning the key to power I can here a click at the solenoid which I assumed meant that it was engaging. What are the chances of both solenoids being bad? I will try to check tonight though. Thanks for all your help.
ANSWER: Hello Again Nick:
>>The Breakdown for this Unit does Not Show an Igniter or the Control Circuit Board Used, so the Possible causes for this Problem are Limited.
>>I Did Not Realize the Carburetor had been Replaced with a New One.
>>I Assumed you had Replaced the Carburetor with a Used One.
>>If this Unit has the Electronic Control Circuit Board at the Operators Station, then this Curcuit Board can be the cause for this Problem.
>>If there is No Control Circuit Board Used on this Model (I did not see one in the Breakdown), then the Most Likely cause is a Bad Coil.
>>The Spring Style Hose Clamps will Loosen as they Age and cause Fuel Flow Problems and the Screw Style Hose Clamps Hold Tighter and Assures No Leaks in the Fuel System.
>>As Always, If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I Hope to be Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 3 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Follow Up Questions are Received Anytime. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Hello again John,
So under unfourtante circumstances I am writing you again. I got the ignition coil/magneto last night and changed them out. Tractor fired up & ran like a top. I turned it off & started it & ran it for a few min. a couple of times to see that it would keep firing up. Gladly it did! So I took her out for a spin, pushed some snow around, used the thrower. All was well for about 10 min. then it started throttling again & died. I was able to fire it back up while choked, but it died quickly. Needless to say I ended up pushing the tractor back into the garage to its resting place. I am stumped again. I gaped the coil/magneto w/ a business card. Is that correct? Is it possible to have gotten a bad coil/magneto? Any other ideas?
AnswerHello Again Nick:
>>I get Bad Ign Coils all the Time, but I Replace Many of these Also.
>>You can Purchase a Bad Ign Coil Brand New.
>>Change the Spring Style Clamps on the Fuel System to the Screw Style.
>>If Possible, Operate the Engine with the Plunger of the Carburetor Solenoid Removed.
>>2 Business Cards would have been Better, but would Not Damage the Coil. It would Fire the Plug Cooler than Normal.
>>Now you will have to do as I do in the Shop. Operate the Engine and Make Changes to Components until you Locate the Bad Component through Trial and Error.
>>As Always, If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I Hope to be Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 3 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Follow Up Questions are Received Anytime. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
