Small Engines (Lawn Mowers, etc.): LX178 Question, crankshaft seal, engine crankshaft


Question
Hi John.

Question about my LX178.

As of recently, my LX178 has been leaking a little bit of oil directly underneath the front part of the engine (I think near the engine drives the belt), but I kept it full, checked it regularly, and it has been running great.

So, this weekend, I started it up for the final cut of the season. It started ok, but blew the slightest bit of blue smoke when I cranked it up. I noticed it, but it still ran great, so I really didn't think anything of it and wasn't smoking when it ran.

Well, this was fine until I tried to pull on the PTO to engage the mower deck and it did come on (but only slightly). It then started running -really- hot and it started smoking (blue) from underneath the main PTO shaft. I looked and the actual PTO was not turning and a slight squeal was coming from underneath. I shut it off immediately.

Would this be a problem with the PTO clutch? Or is it sounding like something worse like a internal bearing of some sort. Is there an oil seal or bearing around the PTO that could be causing this and the leak?

Many thanks in advance.

Answer
Hello Jon:

 >>From your Description it Sounds like the Deck Drive Belt is Contaminated with Oil and is Slipping (the Source of the Blue Smoke) on the PTO Pulley.
 >>Check the Deck Drive Belt as it Sounds like it was Hot and there may be a Burnt Place in the Belt (caused the Blue Smoke from Under the Engine at the PTO) and the Belt Requires Replacement.
 >>You can View a Breakdown/IPL of the Engine and Mower at this Site Addy, http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com.deere.u90490.partscatalog.view.servlets.H... and Enter the Model Numbers and Click Find. Then Select your Model from the Search Results Area. Then Select the Sectional File. Then Select the Section of the Mower you Wish to View Online. *You can Drag the View Windows for Better Viewing.*
 >>The Oil Leak is Most Likely from the Lower Engine Crankshaft Seal.
 >>Replacing the Lower Crankshaft Seal is Simple, Just Time consuming.
 >>Sometimes you can Replace the Lower Seal with the Engine still Mounted onto the Unit if there is Enough Room around the Crankshaft to Correctly Remove and Install the New Oil Seal.
>>If Not Enough Room to Remove and Install the New Seal, then the Engine will have to be Removed from the Unit.
 >>**This is a Simple Process. Drain the Oil and Remove the Engine to the Work Bench with the Oil Pan Facing Up. I have a Wooden Rest that was Especially Made to Hold the Engine when in this Position.
>>Using Fine Sand Paper, Remove ALL the Rust and Debris from the Crankshaft.
>>Now Using a Flat Screw Driver, Pop Out the Old Seal.
>>Now Locate a Pipe Nipple or a Short Section of Pipe that is the Same Diameter or Slightly Smaller than the Diameter of the Seal and is Approximately 2" Longer than the Crankshaft.
>>Place the New Seal at the Engine Block and then Place the Pipe/Pipe Nipple Over the Crankshaft and Lightly Tap the New Seal into Place (Seal should be Flush with the Oil Pan/Sump).
>>I am Including the Instruction Files for Checking and Removing the PTO, but I Believe the Oily Belt is the cause for this Problem.
 >>The Following is a PTO Test File I made. Any Input is Appreciated. **If you have an Ohmmeter, Disconnect the Wiring Harness from the Front of the Clutch and Check the Resistance of the Clutch. You should have around 4 or 5 OHMs. If at or near Zero, the Coil has Shorted.**
 >>The Following is a Basic File I made for Setting the PTO Clearance. Any Input is Appreciated. **Some of the Newer PTOs cannot be Adjusted.
>>If you can Get a Blade Style Feeler Gauge between the PTO Magnet and Clutch, then Set the Clearance at .015in. The Newer PTOs have the Same Set Up as the Older PTOs, except there is No Adjustments.
>>I Suggest also that you Rig a 12 Volt Light for Testing the Current Flow to the PTO while Operating the Mower. If the Light Blinks During Operation, then you have a Bad Connection somewhere to the PTO Clutch.
>>If the Light Stays Steady and the PTO Still Kicks in and Out, then it is the Adjustment or a New PTO is Required if this is the Non Adjustable Style PTO.
>>You can Also Try Turning the Spring Loaded Adjuster Nuts 1/4 Turn and Operate the Mower. Do Not Adjust Over 1/2 Turn.
>>If you have Adjusted to 1/2 Turn and the Problem is Still Present and you Know the Voltage to the PTO is Steady, then Replace the PTO.**
 >>To Remove the PTO;
>>Remove the Spark Plug and Use a Bolt with the Same Diameter and Threads as the Spark Plug and About 3" Long.
>>Thread the Bolt into the Spark Plug Hole Until it Engages the Piston.
>>Slowly Tighten the Bolt Until you have Locked the Piston and it Does Not Move. **BE CAREFUL A LOT OF TORQUE IS NOT REQUIRED. PISTON DAMAGE CAN OCCUR IF TO MUCH TORQUE IS USED ON THE STOP BOLT**
>>Now Remove the Crankshaft Center Bolt from the PTO Clutch Assembly.
 >>If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem,  I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. I Hope you Had a Happy Holiday and May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

John

PS: I am Allowed to Answer 3 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Follow Up Questions are Received Anytime. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.

Respectfully

John