QuestionQUESTION: I have a Crafstman riding mower that has a B&S 17 HP engine that is about 10-11 years old. The mower has been well maintained, and is in good shape. The problems all started one day when the blade was engaged. The mower stopped, and wouldn't start. (yes I did dis-engage the blade) I spent days trying to figure out what safteys were good/bad, and the other parts. Finally I took off the valve cover, and there was the problem a broken exhaust rod (Aluminum). All the pieces seemed to be right there. The top inch broke off at the valve. I looked at trying to repair it myself, but I decided it was too much for me so I took it to a repair shop. At the shop they replaced the push rod, and the solenoid. The mower was supposed to be fixed, but I got it home and it wouldn't start. Took it back and they said the battery was bad, so I replaced the battery as it was 2 years old. Cut grass with it for about 30 minutes to ensure it was fixed. It ran well, but seemed slightly underpowered. Put it away and came back a week later to pull a plugger behind so I could plant grass. The mower was hard to start. I put gas in the carb and it would start, and run for 2-3 minutes before knocking off and this happened 2-3 times before it quit restarting. Now it's dead. When you try to start it the flywheel does not seem to want to spin sometimes, then others it will spin freely trying to start. I am not sure if it's related or not, but when I got it back from the shop the first time the transmission would not roll freely when the pin was pulled on the back disengaging it. It had never done this before. The repair man said it was because the oil was not circulating, and it was cold. It did free up after he rode it around the parking lot, but now I can't get it on the ramps on the back of the truck to take it back to the shop. Plus, I don't know if I trust the repair guy anymore. PLEASE HELP!!! I AM SO FRUSTRATED!!! Do I need a new mower?
ANSWER: Hello Brandon:
>>From your Description of How the Engine is Turning During the Start Procedure, it Sounds like the Valve Adjustment is Not Right and the Valve Clearances Require Seting.
>>The Turning 3/4 Turn Smoothly and then Slowing or Stopping is a Good Sign the Compression Release is Not Operating Correctly.
>>This is Corrected when the Valve Clearances are Set Correctly as the COmpression Release Operates Off the Cam and Opens the Valve Slightly before Full Compression is Acheived.
>>>>The Following is a Basic File I made for Setting the Valve Clearances. Any Input is Appreciated.
>>**I Do Not Use the Setting Called for by the OEMs. I have Found that the Following Works Best.
>>Remove the Valve Cover (on the Dead Cylinder for Twin Cylinder Engines).
>>Check the Push Tubes and make Sure they are Not Bent.
>>Set the Cylinder you are Setting the Valves on to Top Dead Center on the Compression Stroke When Setting the Valve Clearance. Now Loosen the Valve Adjuster Lock and Using a Blade Style Feeler Gauge, Set the Intake Valve Clearance to .004in -.006in and the Exhaust to .006in - .008in. Loosen and Tighten the Rocker Arm and the Feeler Gauge is Placed Between the Rocker Arm and the Valve Top where the Rocker Arm Pushes on the Valve.
>>***BE SURE TO TIGHTEN THE ADJUSTER LOCK AFTER YOU HAVE THE PROPER VALVE CLEARANCE***
>>If you Remove the Valve Cover and then Turn the Engine by Hand, you can Watch the Intake Valve Movement. When the Intake Valve Closes, the Piston will Just Starting the Compression/Power Stroke.
>>Position the Piston so it is Completely at the Top of the Cylinder and then Set the Valve Clearances.
>>Be Careful and Don't Jam the Wire in the Cylinder. Usually the Piston will Push the Wire Out of the Spark Plug Hole with No Problems.
>>You can Locate the Correct Specification (Bolt Torque, Valve Clearances, ect) for this Engine at this Site Addy; http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/engine_specs/ and Select your Engines OEM and the Specification Chart you Require.
>>If you cannot Locate the Specifications you Require, then Send me the Make, Model, Type/Specification Numbers Off the Engine, Please. With these I can Locate the Correct Manual and Better Assist you.
>>As for the Transaxle,
>>You have Described a HydroStatic/Hydromatic Style Transaxle and they Sometimes will cause the Problem you Described for Moving the Unit when the Release is Moved to the Free Position.
>>Usually if you can get the Unit to Move even 1", the Valve will Allow the Fluid to Bypass as it is Designed and the Unit will Roll Easily.
>>The Cooler the Transaxle Fluid the Harder it is for the Fluid to Bypass the Release Valve.
>>Send me the Model and Type or Spec Numbers Off the Engine and the Unit/Mower Model Numbers, Please. With these I can Locate the Proper Manual and Better Assist you. The Engine Model Numbers May be Stamped Into the Blower Housing (metal engine cover) Above the Spark Plug. The Unit/Mower Model Numbers are Usually Located Under the Seat on a Sticker on the Body of the Mower.
>>If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I Hope to be Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 3 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. All Follow up Questions are Accepted at Any Time. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Craftsman 917.270680
Briggs & Stratton 16 HP Engine (correction). Model 310707 Type 0136-E1, Code 000602ZE.
AnswerHello Again Brandon:
>>Thanks for the Model Numbers.
>>Did Setting the Valve Clearances Not Correct the Problem with the Starting?
>>Thanks.
Respectfully
John
>>PS: I am Allowed to Answer 3 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Follow Up Questions are Accepted at Anytime. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
