QuestionQUESTION: i have a 2 kva petrol generator which i have modified with a gas kit and using it on natural gas. 2 months back it started to use engine oil and i had to pour engine oil in 2 to 3 days to keep it running, i contact my mechanic he said to overhaul a engine i got it over haled with new ring piston. 10 days back it started the same problem of oil and white smoke was coming out of muffler, again mechanic said rings are damage and get to have a over haul i got it over haul again. now generatoris having another problem, when ever i switch it off at the end to close it gives a jerk with a sound of tuk. what is going wrong.
ANSWER: Hello Syed:
>>Usually when an OHV Engine is Smoking White Smoke, it can be from One of the Following.
>>The Following is an Instruction File I Made for the Gas Contamination of the Crankcase Oil and/or Blowing White Smoke when Running or Blowing Oil from the Muffler. Any Input Concerning the File is Appreciated.
>>Depending on the Engine Model, Usually the Gas in the Crankcase Oil or White/Blue Smoke is Caused by the Carburetor Float Needle Valve Not Seating Properly and Allowing the Gas to Flood the Carburetor and Engine. Then the Gas Seeps by the Rings and Enters the Crankcase and Contaminates the Crankcase Oil.
>The Smoking is Caused Not Only by the Flooded Crankcase but can be Caused by 1 of the Following; a Bad Diaphragm in the Fuel Pump, a Blown Head Gasket between the Cylinder and Push Tube Galley, the Crankcase Vent Stuck/Frozen/Broken or the Carburetor Flooding the Engine.
>>1- Clean the Carburetor and Replace the Float Needle Valve (and Seat if this Model has One). A- **Remove, Disassemble and Soak the Carburetor Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning. You Only have to Remove the Bowl (if Applicable), Float Pin (if Applicable), Float (if Applicable) and Needle Valve and Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed. Then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts. Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air. Install New Parts if Required.**
>>If the Carburetor Float Needle is Good, then;
>>2- Block the Outlet Port and Pull a Vacuum on the Fuel Pump. If it Holds Vacuum, then it is Good. If Not, then the Diaphragm is Busted and the Pump Requires Replacing. If the Fuel Pump is Good, then Check the Crankcase Oil for Gas Contamination.
>>If the Crankcase Oil is Contaminated, then Drain and Refill the Crankcase Oil with Fresh Oil.
3- **If the Mower has a Manual Gas Shut Off Valve: Check the Manual Cut Off Valve and Make Sure it is Cutting Off the Gas Flow to the Carburetor. A- If Not Stopping the Gas Flow, then Replace the Valve. B- If the Mower Does Not have a Manual Cut Off Valve: Install a Manual Cut Off Valve and Turn Off the Gas Flow when the Engine is Not in Use. These Carburetor Styles Tend to Allow Gas to Seep by the Rubber Tipped Needle Kit or the 2 Pc O-Ring Needle Kit. A I Believe I Said Before, I have Seen a Lot of these Problems and this is the Way I have Found to be Sure the Crankcase Oil Does Not become Contaminated with Gas Again.**
>>4- If the Valve is Good or has Been Installed, then Remove the Cylinder Head. On the OHV Engines the Head gasket will Blow Between the Cylinder and the Push Tube Galley. This Allow Oil to be Sucked Into the Cylinder from the Crankcase and the Extra Oil is Just Enough to Cause the White Smoke.
>>5- Check the Crankcase Breather and Make Sure it is Clean and Operating Properly.
>>6- If the Crankcase Breather Sticks, then Oil is Pulled from the Crankcase into the Carburetor Throat and this Causes the White Smoke.
>>7- If the Crankcase Oil is Good, then Check the Gas Tank Cap and Ensure it is Venting the Tank. If the Gas Cap is Not Venting the Tank, then Pressure Builds in the Tank and the Pressure Pushes Gas by the Carburetor Float Needle Valve and Floods the Engine and Crankcase Oil.
>>8- On OHV Engines, Some of my Questioners have Responded Back to me then when the Head Gasket Blows between the Compression Chamber and the Valve Galley, or the Head Bolts Loosen, the Engine will Smoke Also. The Smoke is Usually a White to Bluish in Color Depending on the Extent of the Oil Being Sucked in from the Crankcase to the Gas being Pulled from the Carburetor.
>>The Sudden Stop can Occur whenever the Crankcase is Overfilled with Oil (happens a lot when you have gas and Oil in the crankcase) or if the Flywheel Key is Damaged.
>>Check the Flywheel Key.
>>The Following is the Instruction File I Made for Removing the Flywheel from Most Mower Engines for Replacing the Flywheel Key, the Stator/Charging Coil/Magneto and the Point Set on Older Engines without Electronic Ign Coils.
>>It is the Basics and if you have a Question, Please Ask. Any Input to Make this File Better is Appreciated.
>>***Disconnect the Coil Wire from the Spark Plug. Remove the Blower Housing (metal engine cover).
>>Remove the Coil.
>>Remove the Flywheel Nut or Starter Cup (Depends on the Model).
>>Now Attach a Steering Wheel Puller to the Flywheel Using the Threaded Holes in the Flywheel.
>>Tighten the Puller.
>>Now Hit the Puller with a Hammer. Repeat this Procedure Until the Flywheel Pops Up or can be Lifted Off the Crankshaft.
>>On Some Models you Can Not Use a Puller and and the Jaws of a Standard Puller will Not Fit. On these Type Engines you can Use a Pry Bar and a Pipe Cap that is Slightly Larger than the Crankshaft. Place the Pipe Cap Over the Crankshaft to Protect it. Place the Pry Bar Under the Thick Section of the Flywheel and Pull Up Against the Flywheel.
>>**BE CAREFUL DO NOT PUT A HOLE IN THE BLOCK UNDER THE FLYWHEEL** >>Now Hit the Pipe Cap that is on the Crankshaft (covered with the Pipe Cap). Repeat the Procedure Until the Flywheel can be Lifted Off the Crankshaft.
>>*** Be Sure you have the Flywheel Torqued to the Proper Torque (I require the Model and Spec/Type Numbers Off the Engine to Provide the Proper Torque) and Set the Coil Gap to .015in..***
>>If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I Hope to be Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 3 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. All Follow up Questions are Accepted at Any Time. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: thanks alot, but boss it was quite technical for a non technical person i didnot understand any thing..
i would appreciate if you can be more on a lay man terminology.
i further want to ask that the kick of generator is become hard( previsouly it was not like that) i use to easly pull the kick. it quite hard and gets stuck in between 2 or 3 kicks. i showed it to my mechanic he said engine is new it will take time to get it normal like 50hrs of running. i ask another mechanic he said tappid must be hard that is why it kick is back firring.
please advice
AnswerHello Again Syed:
>>The Hard Kick is Usually caused by a Blown Head Gasket or a Damaged Flywheel Key.
>>The Following is the Instruction File I Made for Removing the Flywheel from Most Mower Engines for Replacing the Flywheel Key, the Stator/Charging Coil/Magneto and the Point Set on Older Engines without Electronic Ign Coils.
>>It is the Basics and if you have a Question, Please Ask. Any Input to Make this File Better is Appreciated.
>>***Disconnect the Coil Wire from the Spark Plug. Remove the Blower Housing (metal engine cover).
>>Remove the Coil.
>>Remove the Flywheel Nut or Starter Cup (Depends on the Model).
>>Now Attach a Steering Wheel Puller to the Flywheel Using the Threaded Holes in the Flywheel.
>>Tighten the Puller.
>>Now Hit the Puller with a Hammer. Repeat this Procedure Until the Flywheel Pops Up or can be Lifted Off the Crankshaft.
>>On Some Models you Can Not Use a Puller and and the Jaws of a Standard Puller will Not Fit. On these Type Engines you can Use a Pry Bar and a Pipe Cap that is Slightly Larger than the Crankshaft. Place the Pipe Cap Over the Crankshaft to Protect it. Place the Pry Bar Under the Thick Section of the Flywheel and Pull Up Against the Flywheel.
>>**BE CAREFUL DO NOT PUT A HOLE IN THE BLOCK UNDER THE FLYWHEEL** >>Now Hit the Pipe Cap that is on the Crankshaft (covered with the Pipe Cap). Repeat the Procedure Until the Flywheel can be Lifted Off the Crankshaft.
>>*** Be Sure you have the Flywheel Torqued to the Proper Torque (I require the Model and Spec/Type Numbers Off the Engine to Provide the Proper Torque) and Set the Coil Gap to .020in..***
>>Send me the Model and Type or Spec Numbers Off the Engine and the Unit/Mower Model Numbers, Please. With these I can Locate the Proper Manual and Better Assist you. The Engine Model Numbers May be Stamped Into the Blower Housing (metal engine cover) Above the Spark Plug. The Unit/Mower Model Numbers are Usually Located Under the Seat on a Sticker on the Body of the Mower.
>>As Always, If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I Hope to be Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 3 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. All Follow up Questions are Accepted at Any Time. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
