QuestionQUESTION: Generac-160, 5.5 hp engine will start but only run for a short time (approx. 1 min.)when stone cold. After a few seconds I can restart it but it will only run for approx. 5 sec. By using the choke it will run a few seconds longer as though it is out of fuel or spark. I cannot keep it running using starter fluid. I have replaced the mag. and cleaned the carburetor but did not replace any carb. parts. (I noticed rust on the flywheel; could this reduce the power of the spark.) The carb. is a Nikki horizontal flow. --Thanks, Bob
ANSWER: Hello Bob:
>>Sorry for the Delay. My PC Crashed and it Took a while to get it Up and Going again and its Still Acting up.
>>When this Occurs, is the Spark Plug Firing?
>>If Yes, then
>>Did you Soak the Carburetor in Cleaner or Use Spray Cleaner?
>>The Following is a Basic File I Made for Cleaning Carburetors. Any Input is Appreciated. Even though the Carburetor Looks Clean, the Internal Passages May be Restricted with Varnish that Gas Causes to Build Up over Time.
>>Spray Cleaners Remove this Varnish in Layers, so Soaking is the Only Sure Way to Remove ALL this Varnish.
>>I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning.
>>You Only have to Remove the Bowl (if Applicable), Float Pin (if Applicable), Float (if Applicable), Needle Valve.
Remove Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welsh Plugs Do Not have to be Removed.
>>If you are Able to Remove and Disassemble the Carburetor and Keep the Gaskets Intact, then Usually these Gaskets can be Reused. The Only Parts you May Need to Replace is the Needle Valve.
>>The Float Needle Usually is Not Replaced Unless it is Not Operating Properly (the gas flow not shutting off and the carburetor is Flooding). Do Not Remove the Main Nozzle. This is a Pressed Fit and Removal is Not Required for Cleaning. Soaking and Blowing the Carburetor Out After Soaking will Clean the Nozzle.
>>Once Disassembled, then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts.
>>Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air.
>>Note: **Pay Close Attention to the Adjusting Screws and Remember which Hole the were Removed from. They MUST be Replaced Into the SAME Hole they were Removed from!!!**
>>***(Do Not Use High Pressure Air for the Zama Carburetors, they have Check Valves for the Primer and these are Usually Blown Out of the Carburetor if Not Careful. Allow the Zama Carburetor to Set on a Drip Pan and Dry)***.
>>****All the Carburetor Adjustments are the Same for Lawn Mower and Trimmers. There are Several Location for the Air Mixture Screws. The Idle Air Mixture Screws are Usually Located at the Top of the Carburetor Bowl and the Top of the Carburetor Body.****
>>If the Main Air and Idle Air Mixture Screws are Side by Side on the Side of the Carburetor, then the Idle Air is Nearest the Engine. The Main Jet Air Mixture Screw is Located in the Bottom of the Carburetor Bowl or Beside the Idle Air Screw on the Side of the Carburetor Body.
>>Some of the Older Model Carburetors have the Main Jet Mixture Screw Straight in from the Top of the Carburetor Body (this is Rare anymore). If you have Cleaned the Carburetor (Disassembled and Soaked Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air and Install a New Kit if Required. Now Setting the Air Mixture Screws:
>>****Turn the Idle Air and Main Air Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Holding the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine. Set the Idle Screw so the Engine will Idle (even if a little high) and then Using the Governor Arm (on chainsaws and trimmers use the Trigger) Rev the Engine Up and Down Until and Turn the Main Air Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. Occasionally you May have to Turn Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs. Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required. Now Set the Idle Air Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.****
>>If This Carburetor has a Single Air Adjustment (Except Tank Mounted 9200 and 100900 Engine Model Carburetors), Use the Section Above that Pertains to Full Throttle RPM Air Mixture Screw and then Adjust the Screw if Required to Eliminate Any Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle.
>>For the 9200 Model Tank Mounted Carburetor Adjust the Air Mixture Screw Full In, then Reverse 1 1/2 Turns. Set the Throttle Lever to Full Throttle and Start the Engine.
>>Now Carefully Use 1 Finger and Open the Throttle Plate and Over Rev the Engine Slightly. If the Engine Over Revs and Does Not Struggle to Over Rev, then the Carburetor is Set. If the Engine Struggles to Over Rev, then Turn the Adjustment Screw In 1/4 Turn and Repeat the Over Rev Test.
>>If you Adjust to 1/2 Turns In and the Engine Still Struggles to Over Rev, then Return the Adjustment Screw to 1 1/2 Turns Out from Snug and Turn the Screw Out 1/4 Turn. Do the Over Rev Test. Continue this Process Until you have the Engine Over Revving without Struggle.
>>By Adjusting the Carburetor on this Style Carburetor Until the Engine Over Revs without Struggle, you have Adjusted the Air Mixture to the Best Possible Setting.
>>This file was Intended to Give you the Basic Carburetor Cleaning Instructions and May Not Reflect Your Carburetor Components.
>>If you have Questions, Please Ask. The links Below Provide Good Directions on Cleaning the Carburetor. Make sure you use Compressed Air to Blow through all the Carburetor Passages to make sure they are Clear.
>>1- http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/lmfaq/lmclctc.htm
>>2- http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf .
>>If the Spark Plug is Firing, then
>>The Following is a Basic Instruction File for Locating the Cause/Cure for No Fire to Plug on Trimmers, Blowers, and Chain Saws. Any Input is Appreciated.
>>Remove the Spark Plug and Wrap the Threaded Section of the Plug with Wire, then Attach the Other End of the Wire to the Engine Block. **First Make Sure the Plastic End that Snaps to the Plug is Allowing Current to the Plug. Use a Continuity Tester and Check for Continuity from the Coil Lead through the Plug Cap.** If you have Continuity, then
>>with the Plug Still Wired to the Engine and the Coil Lead Attached to the Plug; Remove the Coil Shut Off Wire at the Shut Off Switch.
>>Check for Fire. If No Fire,
>>then Remove the Cut Off Wire from the Coil (removal of the blower housing required) and Check for Fire. Turning the Engine By Hand (giving a Quick Twist with the Wrist) is Enough to Make the Coil Fire the Plug.
>>If Still No Fire, then the Coil/Ign Module is Bad.
>>If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I Hope to be Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 5 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: I have installed a new spark-plug and gaped it at 0.043 in. Since the engine starts, I know that I have spark initially. I used Starter Fluid to try and keep it running after it has started by squirting it directly into the air intake (after removing the air filter)as the engine is dying, but it will not fire even though it is still rotating. I though that this would mean that it is not the carburetor. Is this correct? I also thought that since it runs longer when the engine is cold that it may be a heat related problem.
My ignition system consists of an armature, coil,spark-plug and a cutoff switch that I can see. I have replaced the armature/coil assembly. I don't know if the following info. will help you or not. This engine is on a Generac Power Washer, Model 09761-0, S/N 1372834, Type 6000cp, 2000 psi. Thanks for your consideration on this aggravating problem. --Bob
AnswerHello Again Bob:
>>Did you Gap the Ign Coil Correctly?
>>***Anytime a Magnet that is Set to the Correct Distance from the Armature/Ign Coil Pickups, the Armature/Ign Coil will Fire the Plug if it is Good. The Armature/Ign Coil Gap should be .020in between the Flywheel and the Armature/Ign Coil Pickups. You can Use a Side Panel from a Drink Carton (Mt Dew, Pepsi, ect) and Place it Between the Flywheel and the Armature/Ign Coil. Allow the Magnets on the Flywheel to Pull the Armature/Ign Coil Together and then Tighten the Armature/Ign Coil Bolts. Carefully Turn the Engine while Pulling the Cardboard Out from between the Armature/Ign Coil Pickups. The Armature/Ign Coil is Now Properly Set.***
>>Can you Check the Model Numbers for me, Please.
>>I am Unable to Locate Any Unit with these Model Numbers.
>>Send me the Model and Type or Spec Numbers Off the Engine, Please. With these I can Locate the Proper Manual and Better Assist you. The Model Numbers May be Stamped Into the Blower Housing (metal engine cover) Above the Spark Plug or the Muffler. Many horizontal shaft, overhead valve engines have these numbers stamped into the OHV rocker cover. However, on certain overhead valve powered generators, the equipment manufacturer installs a decorative chrome rocker cover OVER the Briggs cover. If your engine has a decorative cover, it may be necessary to remove it in order to locate the Model, Type, and Code. If this is a Briggs and Stratton Engine, then you can Also Use this Site Addy; http://www.briggsandstratton.com/maint_repair/BS_modeltypecode.pdf for Assistance in Locating the Model, Type and Code Numbers of a Briggs and Stratton Engine.
>>Thanks.
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 5 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
