Small Engines (Lawn Mowers, etc.): deere l110 wont start, overhead valve engines, john deere l110


Question
QUESTION: I have a John Deere l110 riding mower with a 17.5hp Kohler engine.  When I tried to start it up this spring, I got some clicks but nothing else.  I trickle charged the battery and think it's ok.  I tried to jump the solenoid (small post) and nothing. (i'm guessing the solenoid is bad).  Next, I tried to jump directly to the starter and nothing.  But if I remove the starter from the mower, I can jump it directly with the battery. I was thinking the starter was bad, but no?.  Note that is spins, but doesn't 'rise up' in this test. Putting the starter back on the engine and it tries to turn the flywheel (less than a revolution) and then stops and plays dead.  What to do next?

ANSWER: Hello Sam:

>>The Following is an Instruction File I Made for Checking/Testing the Starter and Solenoid.
>>**(with the Spark Plug/s Removed) To Check the Solenoid and Starter, Once you are Sure the Battery is Fully Charged/New, then Use your Jumper Cable Set and Attach the Positive Lead Onto the Positive Post of the Battery (make sure the Battery is Fully Charged or is a New Battery).
>>Now Firmly Touch the Large Post on the Starter.
>>If the Starter Does Not Turn and you can turn the Engine by Hand, then the Starter is Bad.
>>If the Starter Turns the Engine Properly, Then Check the Solenoid. Firmly Touch the Small Post at the Base of the Solenoid that has the Ign Wire Attached to it.
If the Solenoid Does Not Click, then a Safety Switch is Preventing the Starter System from Operating and the Safety Switch must be Replaced to Correct this Problem.
>>If The Starter Does Not Turn and the Solenoid Clicks, Then the Solenoid is Bad.**
>>Send me the Model and Type or Spec Numbers Off the Unit, Please. With these I can Locate the Proper Manual and Better Assist you. The Model Numbers May be Stamped Into the Blower Housing (metal engine cover) Above the Spark Plug. Many horizontal shaft, overhead valve engines have these numbers stamped into the OHV rocker cover. However, on certain overhead valve powered generators, the equipment manufacturer installs a decorative chrome rocker cover OVER the Briggs cover. If your engine has a decorative cover, it may be necessary to remove it in order to locate the Model, Type, and Code. If this is a Briggs and Stratton  Engine, then you can Also Use this Site Addy; http://www.briggsandstratton.com/maint_repair/BS_modeltypecode.pdf for Assistance in Locating the Model, Type and Code Numbers of a Briggs and Stratton Engine.
>>If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem,  I Hope to be Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

John

PS: I am Allowed to Answer 5 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.

Respectfully

John

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Here's the whole story:
John Deere L110
Kohler 17.5hp
engine no. CV491S-27509
~80hrs of use

Last fall, I had trouble starting,  Would click but not turn starter.  I thought it was the solenoid (wrong) and replaced this, which didn't fix it.  I needed to mow, so I jumped to the starter.  I did this a number of times during the season. During operation, I didn't notice anything odd about the mower performance.  This spring, I could not get it started by jumping directly to the starter.  I'm thinking I have more than 1 problem now.  A bad safety switch (orignial problem)? and a bad starter?  

Battery was trickle charged about a week ago and continues to test at ~12.5V with a voltmeter, before and after tests.  Posts/terminals cleaned with a wire brush.  Note, that the original battery was replaced about a year ago.  Battery is rated 165cca (same as original).

Here's what I did this morning:

1) Jump battery (+) to small terminal of solenoid where ignition wire connects (nothing, i.e. no sound, doesn't turn starter).  I tried both small posts to be sure I had the right one.

2) Jump battery to starter, starter spins freely, but does not turn flywheel

3) remove starter and jump using battery, starter spins but does not raise up

4) Flywheel can be turned by hand

5) I also replicated the above tests by grounding the battery to the engine mount using a jumper cable with identical results

Answer
Hello Again Sam:

>>Thanks for giving me the "Whole Story".
>>From your Description it Sounds like the Starter Drive Requires Cleaning and a Light Lubrication or Possibly Replacing.
>>I Suggest you First remove the Starter and get the Starter Drive Moving.
>>Remove the Starter Drive Gear Assembly from the Starter and Check the Splines on the Armature.
>>If these are Damaged, then the Starter Gear will Not Move and the Armature or Starter Requires Replacing.
>>Check the Starter Drive Gear and make sure it is Not Broken (Cracked) or Worn Teeth Inside and outside of the Starter Gear) and Jumping on the Splines of the Armature.
>>Usually the Starter Drive Gear is the Cause for this Problem and Replacing the Starter Gear Fixes this Problem.
>>Once the Starter Drive is Moving Correctly, then
>>Check ALL the Safety Switches.
>>The Following is an Instruction File for the Safety Switch System. Any Input is Appreciated.
>>The Color Code of the Wires May be Different than those I Use as a Reference in the Instruction File.
>>**PLEASE REMEMBER THAT THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR CHECKING THE SAFETY SWITCHES IS JUST THAT!!! FOR CHECKING ONLY.
>>I NEVER Suggest a Mower be Operated with a Safety Device or Switch Disconnected or Bypassed.
>>**Now. On Some Model Mowers you can Simply Unplug the Safety Switch from the Harness. On Other Models you have to Place a Jumper Wire Between the Harness Terminals (on the 4 Post Switch (Clutch/Brake) Jumper from Same Color Wire (Example: White to White) First and then Check for Fire, Now Include the Black to Black Wires if No Fire. Check the Clutch/Brake and the Blade/PTO Safety Switches First.  Then Check the Oil Guard Switch (if Applicable). Check the Seat Safety Last. Usually the Seat Safety is Not in the System for Starting the Engine. Just to Ensure Someone is in the Seat when Engaging the Transaxle and/or Blades. Use a Paper Clip or a Short Wire to Make a Jumper.**  
>>Use a Multi-meter and Check the Continuity of the Switch. The Meter should Show when the Contacts are Closed and Open. The Meter will Swing All the Way Over when the Switch Contacts are Closed and Swing Back to the Rest Point when the Switch Contacts are Open.
>>As Always, If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem,  I Hope to be Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

John

PS: I am Allowed to Answer 5 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.

Respectfully

John