QuestionQUESTION: My 21 hp briggs is hard to turn over. If you try to much the possitive cable gets hot at the starter. It turns over fine with the spark plugs out. But is hard to tun with them in. I jumbed it off my battery in my car. And sometimes it will start and it runs good when it starts. I have tried to jump it at the starter, and someone says if it still drags, the starter is bad. But if the starter is bad, why does it crank good with the spark plugs out? Any information you can give me on the turning over hard problem would be a great help. Thank You!
ANSWER: Hello Chuck:
>>The Starter can be Binding/Dragging Under a Load and this would Explain why the Starter Turn the Engine Correctly when the Spark Plugs are Removed.
>>However, Check the Valve Clearances First. If the Valve Clearances are Not Correct, then you will have the Problem you Described because the Compression Release System of these Engines Operate through the Valves.
>>The Following is a Basic File I made for Setting the Valve Clearances. Any Input is Appreciated.
>>**I Do Not Use the Setting Called for by the OEMs. I have Found that the Following Works Best.
>>Remove the Valve Cover (on the Dead Cylinder for Twin Cylinder Engines).
>>Check the Push Tubes and make Sure they are Not Bent.
>>Set the Cylinder you are Setting the Valves on to Top Dead Center on the Compression Stroke When Setting the Valve Clearance. Now Loosen the Valve Adjuster Lock and Using a Blade Style Feeler Gauge, Set the Intake Valve Clearance to .004in -.006in and the Exhaust to .006in - .008in. Loosen and Tighten the Rocker Arm and the Feeler Gauge is Placed Between the Rocker Arm and the Valve Top where the Rocker Arm Pushes on the Valve.
>>***BE SURE TO TIGHTEN THE ADJUSTER LOCK AFTER YOU HAVE THE PROPER VALVE CLEARANCE***
>>I have had Better Performance Out of the Mowers and Less Burnt Valves Using these Settings. Be Sure the Piston is at TDC on the Compression Stroke.**
>>If you Remove the Valve Cover and then Turn the Engine by Hand, you can Watch the Intake Valve Movement. When the Intake Valve Closes, the Piston will Just Starting the Compression/Power Stroke.
>>On Some Engines you can Us a Straightened Coat Hanger and Feel the Piston.
>>Be Careful and Don't Jam the Wire in the Cylinder. Usually the Piston will Push the Wire Out of the Spark Plug Hole with No Problems.
>>If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I Hope to be Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 5 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: I don't think this twin cylinder has valves. I can't find a valve cover anywhere. It has a cover on each side and under both are heads. I did the clothes hanger in the spark plug holes, but it didn't push it out it pinched it. I haven't replaced the starter yet, I'm trying to see if it is something else first. Any other ideas?
Thanks.
ANSWER: Hello Again Chuck:
>>You have the L-Head or Also Called the Flat Head Engine.
>>Send me the Model and Type or Spec Numbers Off the Unit, Please. With these I can Locate the Proper Manual and Better Assist you. The Model Numbers May be Stamped Into the Blower Housing (metal engine cover) Above the Spark Plug. Many horizontal shaft, overhead valve engines have these numbers stamped into the OHV rocker cover. However, on certain overhead valve powered generators, the equipment manufacturer installs a decorative chrome rocker cover OVER the Briggs cover. If your engine has a decorative cover, it may be necessary to remove it in order to locate the Model, Type, and Code. If this is a Briggs and Stratton Engine, then you can Also Use this Site Addy; http://www.briggsandstratton.com/maint_repair/BS_modeltypecode.pdf for Assistance in Locating the Model, Type and Code Numbers of a Briggs and Stratton Engine.
>>The Following is a Basic Instruction File for Setting the Valve Clearances on Non OHV Engines. If you Provided me with the Correct Make and Model of the Engine then the Specifications are Included. If Not I May be Able to Provide the Specifications if you Supply me the Make and Model Numbers.
>>The Most Common Clearances are Listed for this Engine in the Following File. Thanks. Any Input is Appreciated.
>>On this Model Engine I Usually Suggest Re-seating the Valves if the Valve Clearance Requires Adjusting.
>>**Remove the Carburetor and the Crankcase Breather/Vent and the Valve (Stem) Cover so you have Access to the Valve Stems, Springs and Keepers.
>>Set 1 Cylinder (on Twin Cylinder Engines) to TDC on the Compression Stroke. Using a Blade Style Feeler Gauge, Check the Clearances. The Intake should be .005in - .007in and Exhaust .008in - .010in. If the Feeler Gauge will Not Slide Between the Valve Tip and the Tappet, then you Must Reset the Clearances.
>>**You Will Require a Small Engine Valve Spring Compressor to Remove the Springs and Keepers from the Valve Stems.** Some Engines Use a Valve Keeper that is like Automotive Keepers (2 Cone Shaped Keepers that Set in the Valve Retainer/Rotocoil Assembly)and the Other Style is a Slotted Retainer that is Moved (once the Valve Spring is Compressed) to the Larger Opening in the Retainer and the Retainer Slips Over the Valve Stem Tip for the Valve to be Removed.
>>Remove the Heads.
>>Set 1 Cylinder so the Piston is at TDC on the Compression Stroke And Check the Clearances Between the Valve Stem Tip and the Tappet. The Clearances are as Follows: Intake Valve Clearance is .005in - .007in and the Exhaust is .008in - .010in.
>>You have to Lightly Grind the Valve Stem Tip and Place the Valve Back Into the Engine (you can Hold the Valve Seated by Hand) and Check the Clearance Until you Reach the Required Clearances.
>>**++** For this Engine Model I Suggest you Re-seat the Valves while you are Setting the Correct Valve Clearance. For this you will Need a Small Valve Seat Suction Tool. This can Usually be Purchased for $10.00us and has a Suction Cup that Hold the Valve Head so you can Turn the Valve Back and Forth and Dress up the Valve Seat. Valve Grinding Compound is Approximately $5.00us a Tube and a Tube Last the Shop About a Year. It Doesn't Take a Lot to Re-seat 1 Engine.**++**
>> Once the Valve Clearances are Reached and the Valve Seat is Nice and Dull; Re-Install the Valves on that Cylinder and Turn the Other Cylinder to TDC on the Compression Stroke and Set that Cylinders Valve Clearances.
>>Once that Cylinder is Set, then Assemble the Engine.**
>>You can View a Breakdown/IPL of this Engine at this Site Addy, http://www.smallenginepartswarehouse.com/parts.asp and Select the Shop Online Parts Look Up. Then Select the Model Tab. Then Select the OEM and Enter the Model (5 or 6 Digits) and Type Numbers. Example: XXXXXX-XXXX. Then Double Click on the Model in the Results Area. Select Sectional Index. Now you can Select the Section of the Engine you Wish to View.
>>As Always, If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I Hope to be Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 5 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: OK here are the numbers. Model 461707,Type 0116E1,Code 0010115A
Thanks again.
AnswerHello Again Chuck:
>>This Appears to be a Flat Head/L-Head Engine. the Second Set of Instructions I Sent you is on How to Set the Valve Clearances on the Flat/L-Head Engines.
>>The Following is an Instruction File I Made for Checking/Testing the Starter and Solenoid.
>>**(with the Spark Plug/s Removed) To Check the Solenoid and Starter, Once you are Sure the Battery is Fully Charged/New, then Use your Jumper Cable Set and Attach the Positive Lead Onto the Positive Post of the Battery (make sure the Battery is Fully Charged or is a New Battery).
>>Now Firmly Touch the Large Post on the Starter.
>>If the Starter Does Not Turn and you can turn the Engine by Hand, then the Starter is Bad.
>>If the Starter Turns the Engine Properly, Then Check the Solenoid. Firmly Touch the Small Post at the Base of the Solenoid that has the Ign Wire Attached to it.
If the Solenoid Does Not Click, then a Safety Switch is Preventing the Starter System from Operating and the Safety Switch must be Replaced to Correct this Problem.
>>If The Starter Does Not Turn and the Solenoid Clicks, Then the Solenoid is Bad.**
>>As Always, If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I Hope to be Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 5 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
