Question"I have a john Deere 265 and it will not start. I think that there are two problems.
1st
There is no fuel getting to the carb. there is vacuum from the engine but it seams very weak. all the fuel lines are free from obstructions. the fuel filter is new and the carb. has just been cleaned before storing for the winter. I think that the fuel pump may be bad. Is there anyway to test this before replacing the fuel pump.
2nd
I have tried to bypass the fuel problem by pouring a small amount of gas down the carb. all that happens is a very loud backfire. I have checked the key and cleaned the flywheel and coil, replaced the spark plug and there is good spark. checked the valves and they are opening and closing like they should and there is good compression. Today I was able to get the engine to run for about 2 to 3 secs by pouring the fuel down the carb. again but that was about it. The engine is a fc540v Kawasaki
What else should i check"
AnswerHello Mike:
>>Sorry for the Delay. I have been Unable to Answer Questions Due to Health Issues. Thanks for Understanding.
>>Change All the Spring Type Hose Clamps to the Screw Type Hose Clamps. Sometimes the Spring Type Clamps Lose Tension and Allow Vacuum Leaks and this causes the Fuel Pump Not to Operate Correctly.
>>If the Carburetor has a Solenoid, then
>>The Following is a Basic Instruction File I made for Checking the Carburetor Solenoid. Any Input is Appreciated.
>>**Check for Current/Voltage (10.5 VDC Minimum) to the Carburetor Shut Off Solenoid. If the Carburetor Shut Off Solenoid has Current, then On Some Solenoids you can Remove the Needle and Replace the Solenoid to Test them.
>>****PLEASE DO NOT OPERATE THE MOWER WITH THE SOLENOID BYPASSED IN THIS MANNER. THIS IS "ONLY" FOR TESTING.****
>>For Others, Remove the Carburetor Solenoid and Go to the Hardware Store. Purchase a Bolt of the Same Diameter and Threads. It Needs to be 1/2" to 3/4" Long for the Horizontal Mount Solenoids and 1/4" to 1/2" Long for the Vertical Mount Solenoids. Put this Bolt in Place of the Solenoid. If this Corrects the Engine Problem, then Replace the Solenoid.
>>***NOTE: THIS IS FOR CHECKING THE SOLENOID ONLY I NEVER SUGGEST YOU OPERATE THE ENGINE WITH THE SOLENOID OUT OF THE CARBURETOR EXCEPT FOR TESTING PURPOSES***
>>Sometimes the Plunger is Moving, Just Not Far Enough to Allow the Gas to Enter the Jet Properly.** **Use 440 Wet Dry Sand Paper and Engine Oil to Clean the Pin. Wet the Sand Paper with Oil Until it is Flexible and then Lightly Polish the Pin. There is Some Slop/Free Play in the Solenoid Pin. Usually the Electromagnet is Simply Not Pulling the Pin as it Should or there is a Small Bur on the Pin. Use 440 Wet Dry Sand Paper and Engine Oil to Clean the Pin. Wet the Sand Paper with Oil Until it is Flexible and then Lightly Polish the Pin. Clean and Lightly Oil the Pin before Inserting it Back into the Solenoid. Just a Film of Oil is All it Takes.**
>>You can View a Breakdown/IPL of the Engine at this Site Addy,
http://www.emerichsales.com/ and Select Parts at the Top of the Page. Now Fill Out the OEM Parts by Model Fit Section.
>>If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I will Try to be Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 5 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
