QuestionI have a Briggs 18HP I/C Model: 422707 Type: 1263 01
Code:9403095B
While mowing a few days back the engine quit running as if it ran out of fuel. I try to crank it and it will not start until I sprayed fuel into the throat of the carb. When that fuel burnt out it quit again. After several times of the same process over, I decided it must have a bad fuel pump. I took out the old pump, there was fuel at the pump, and cleaned the inside the best I could without taking the carb off. I then installed the new fuel pump and tried cranking again and the same thing it will only run when I spray fuel in the throat of the card. I can see no fuel leaks anywhere. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
AnswerHello Billy:
>>If the Spring Style Hose Clamps are Still being Used on the Carburetor Hose Connections at the Carburetor and the Engine, then Replace All these Clamps with the Screw Style Hose Clamps. The Spring Style Clamps become Weak over time and will Allow a Vacuum Leak to the Fuel Pump. The Vacuum Leak Prevents the Fuel Pump from Operating Correctly.
>>Check the Vacuum Line from the Engine and Make Sure there is Vacuum to the Fuel Pump. Replace this Hose if Required. Sometimes this Hose will Clog up and Restrict Vacuum from the Engine to the Fuel Pump.
>>I do Not see a Carburetor Solenoid on this Carburetor, but just in Case, here is the Instruction File for Checking the Carburetor Solenoid.
>>The Following is a Basic Instruction File I made for Checking the Carburetor Solenoid. Any Input is Appreciated.
>>**Check for Current/Voltage (10.5 VDC Minimum) to the Carburetor Shut Off Solenoid. If the Carburetor Shut Off Solenoid has Current, then On Some Solenoids you can Remove the Needle and Replace the Solenoid to Test them.
>>****PLEASE DO NOT OPERATE THE MOWER WITH THE SOLENOID BYPASSED IN THIS MANNER. THIS IS "ONLY" FOR TESTING.****
>>For Others, Remove the Carburetor Solenoid and Go to the Hardware Store. Purchase a Bolt of the Same Diameter and Threads. It Needs to be 1/2" to 3/4" Long for the Horizontal Mount Solenoids and 1/4" to 1/2" Long for the Vertical Mount Solenoids. Put this Bolt in Place of the Solenoid. If this Corrects the Engine Problem, then Replace the Solenoid.
>>***NOTE: THIS IS FOR CHECKING THE SOLENOID ONLY I NEVER SUGGEST YOU OPERATE THE ENGINE WITH THE SOLENOID OUT OF THE CARBURETOR EXCEPT FOR TESTING PURPOSES***
>>Sometimes the Plunger is Moving, Just Not Far Enough to Allow the Gas to Enter the Jet Properly.** **Use 440 Wet Dry Sand Paper and Engine Oil to Clean the Pin. Wet the Sand Paper with Oil Until it is Flexible and then Lightly Polish the Pin. There is Some Slop/Free Play in the Solenoid Pin. Usually the Electromagnet is Simply Not Pulling the Pin as it Should or there is a Small Bur on the Pin. Use 440 Wet Dry Sand Paper and Engine Oil to Clean the Pin. Wet the Sand Paper with Oil Until it is Flexible and then Lightly Polish the Pin. Clean and Lightly Oil the Pin before Inserting it Back into the Solenoid. Just a Film of Oil is All it Takes.**
>>You can View a Breakdown of this Unit at this Site Addy; http://www.jackssmallengines.com/ and Select Shop Online Parts Look Up. Then Select the Model Tab in the Search by Model Menu. Then Select the OEM (Ariens, Briggs, ect). In the Next Window, Select your Type of Unit (Briggs). Now Select the Series of your Unit (422700). Now Select your Unit (422700-1263-01). Now you can View the Section of the Unit that Pertains to this Repair.
>>Select the Carburetor File.
>>If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
