QuestionQUESTION: I have a Troy Bily model 12089 Horse tiller The engine is a briggs and stratton 198432 industrial plus. It has been stored for about a year. I took it out and cleaned all the old gas from the tank and Carb. Filled it with fresh gas read and checked to make sure that the wheel drive is in neutral. gas level is at start and the PTO is dis engaged. When I pulledit several times and did not start I pulled the plug. Looks good, So I plugged it back into the wire and leaned it on the block and No fire ( not even a spark). I cleaned the fly wheel and the coil and set it back as close to the orginal gap as possible which was about the thickness of a dollar bill. Tricd checking for fire and still nothing.
Can you please help me with this problem I'm totally lost now.
Thanks so Much
Mike
ANSWER: Hello Michael:
>>The Following is a Basic Instruction File I Made for Checking the Coil/Ign Coil/Magnetron on Small Engines. Any Input is Appreciated.
>>**To Check the Ign Coil; Remove the Spark Plug/s.
>>With a Good Plug, Wrap a Wire Around the Threads of the Plug and Attach the Other End of the Wire to the Engine Block. >>Remove the Blower Housing (metal engine cover). The Wire that is Connected to the Coil/Ign Module from the Shut Off Switch needs to be Removed (unplugged) from the Coil/Ign Module.
>>Now Check for Spark at the Plug.
>>If Spark, then the Shut Off Switch or the Wire is Bad.
>>If Still No Spark, then the Coil/Ign Module is Bad. If there are Safety Switches on this Unit and the Coil is Good; you Need to Check the Safety Switches for Being Bad Also.**
>>Please, Do Not Hesitate, If you Hit a Snag, if I Missed Something or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
>>PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: I'm not sure but does this model engine have points? And also is there a way to bypass the safty switches to make sure which one is bad?
IN your reply you mention about the switch on the start cover. Do I need to disconnect the switch and replace the cover and check for fire at the plug?
ANSWER: Hello Again Michael:
>>Go to this Site Addy, http://www.jackssmallengines.net/parts.asp and Select Shop Online Parts Look Up. Then Select the Model Tab and Enter the OEM (Troy Bilt)and the Model Numbers 12089. Now Double Click on your Model in the Results Area. Select the "Wheel Speed Lever, Belt Drive, Engine and Wheels" File.
>>Is it Possible that this is a Briggs Model 196432-0163 Engine? You can View a Breakdown of the Engine at the Same Site as the Unit by Simply Changing the OEM to Briggs and Stratton and Entering the Model and Type Numbers (196432-0163) in the Search Box Under the Model Tab.
>>If Yes, then No this Unit Doesn't have a Point Set. It Uses a Armature/Ign Coil.
>>The Switch in Question is the Engine Shut Off Switch. With the Blower Housing (Metal Engine Cover) Removed, you can See the Armature/Ign Coil.
>>The Armature/Ign Coil has a Single Wire with a Blade Lug Connector and a Wire Attached to the Blade Connector.
>>Disconnect this Wire. You can give the Engine a Quick Turn by Hand so the Magnets on the Flywheel Pass the Armature/Ign Coil Pickups. >>***Anytime a Magnet that is Set to the Correct Distance from the Armature/Ign Coil Pickups, the Armature/Ign Coil will Fire the Plug if it is Good. The Armature/Ign Coil Gap should be .020in between the Flywheel and the Armature/Ign Coil Pickups. You can Use a Side Panel from a Drink Carton (Mt Dew, Pepsi, ect) and Place it Between the Flywheel and the Armature/Ign Coil. Allow the Magnets on the Flywheel to Pull the Armature/Ign Coil Together and then Tighten the Armature/Ign Coil Bolts. Carefully Turn the Engine while Pulling the Cardboard Out from between the Armature/Ign Coil Pickups. The Armature/Ign Coil is Now Properly Set.***
>>If the Plug Fires with this Wire Disconnected, then there is a Problem in the Shut Off Switch Wire, Shut Off Switch or a Safety Switch is Bad.
>>The Following is an Instruction File for the Safety Switch System. Any Input is Appreciated.
>>The Color Code of the Wires May be Different than those I Use as a Reference in the Instruction File.
>>**PLEASE REMEMBER THAT THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR CHECKING THE SAFETY SWITCHES IS JUST THAT!!! FOR CHECKING ONLY.
>>I NEVER Suggest a Mower be Operated with a Safety Device or Switch Disconnected or Bypassed.
>>**Now. On Some Model Mowers you can Simply Unplug the Safety Switch from the Harness. On Other Models you have to Place a Jumper Wire Between the Harness Terminals (on the 4 Post Switch (Clutch/Brake) Jumper from Same Color Wire (Example: White to White) First and then Check for Fire, Now Include the Black to Black Wires if No Fire. Check the Clutch/Brake and the Blade/PTO Safety Switches First. Check the Seat Safety Last. Usually the Seat Safety is Not in the System for Starting the Engine. Just to Ensure Someone is in the Seat when Engaging the Transaxle and/or Blades. Use a Paper Clip or a Short Wire to Make a Jumper.**
>>You can use a Multimeter and Check the Continuity of the Switch. The Meter should Show when the Contacts are Closed and Open. The Meter will Swing All the Way Over when the Switch Contacts are Closed and Swing Back to the Rest Point when the Switch Contacts are Open.
>>Please, Do Not Hesitate, If you Hit a Snag, if I Missed Something or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
>>PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: John You are the greatest It was the switch. I have it running but i'm have to choke it to keep it going. I need some more of your help please. It has a Walbro Carb on it so I'm not quit sure how to adjust this back smooth.
Thanks so much your the greatest.
Mike
AnswerHi Michael:
>>I Just Read your Comments and Ratings. Thanks for the Compliments and Thank you for Using All Experts.
>>The Following is an Instruction File I made for Correcting this Problem. Any Input is Appreciated.
>>****All the Carburetor Adjustments are Basically the Same for Lawn Mower and Trimmers. There are Several Location for the Air Mixture Screws. The Idle Air Mixture Screws are Usually Located at the Top of the Carburetor Bowl and the Top of the Carburetor Body. If the Main Air and Idle Air Mixture Screws are Side by Side on the Side of the Carburetor, then the Idle Air is the Nearest to the Engine. The Main Jet Air Mixture Screw is Located in the Bottom of the Carburetor Bowl or Beside the Idle Air Screw on the Side of the Carburetor Body.
>>Some of the Older Model Carburetors have the Main Jet Mixture Screw Straight in from the Top of the Carburetor Body (this is Rare anymore).
>>If you have Cleaned the Carburetor (Disassembled and Soaked Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air and Install a New Kit if Required.
>>Now Setting the Air Mixture Screws: ****Turn the Idle Air and Main Air Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Holding the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine. Turn the Main Air Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. Occasionally you May have to Turn this Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs. Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required. Now Set the Idle Air Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.**** If This Carburetor has a Single Air Adjustment. Use the Section Above that Pertains to Full Throttle RPM Air Mixture Screw and then Adjust the Screw if Required to Eliminate Any Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle.**
>>If you are having to Run the Engine with the Choke on and Adjusting the Mixture Screws had No Effect on the Engines Operation, then the Carburetor Requires Cleaning. You can Try Spray Cleaners, but I have Found that the Only Way to Really Clean these Small Engine Carburetors is to Soak them First.
>>A Breakdown of the Carburetor is at the Site Addy I Provided for the Engine. Simply Select the Carburetor File. You Do Not have to Disassemble the Carburetor as Far as the Breakdown Does.
>>The Following is a Basic File I Made for Cleaning Carburetors. Any Input is Appreciated. Even though the Carburetor Looks Clean, the Internal Passages May be Restricted with Varnish that Gas Causes to Build Up over Time.
>>Spray Cleaners Remove this Varnish in Layers, so Soaking is the Only Sure Way to Remove ALL this Varnish.
>>I Suggest you Make Sure the Gas is Free Flowing to the Carburetor Inlet Port (if the Model does Not have a Fuel Pump). If the Gas is Free Flowing to the Inlet Port, then
>>**Remove, Disassemble and Soak the Carburetor Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk).
>>The Primer Bulb is Held in Place with a Locking Collar at the Base of the Primer Bulb. Use a Small Flat Screw Driver and Carefully Pry the Lock Ring Up in Small Amounts All Around the Lock Ring until the Lock Ring and Primer Bulb can be Removed from the Carburetor Body. Usually a New Primer Bulb is Required when you have to Soak the Carburetor. The Rubber is Usually Rotted to Much for the Primer to be Reused.
>>Your Primer Bulb May Differ Slightly, but Removal is Usually Almost the Same Except for the Primer Bulbs that are Bolted to the Carburetor. These are Simply Unbolted and Changed with the new Primer Bulb.
>>I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning.
>>You Only have to Remove the Bowl (if Applicable), Float Pin (if Applicable), Float (if Applicable), Needle Valve and Needle Valve Seat if Applicable. This is a Flat O-Ring Located in the Inlet Port the Float Needle Rests in. Use a Strong Wire with a Slight Bend to Remove the Old Seat. Sometimes a Small Pocket Screw Driver can be Use Also.
>>The New Seat will have a Slightly Beveled Side and a Flat Side. The Flat Side goes Towards the Carburetor Body when Inserted into the Inlet Port. Spray the Seat with Spray Lubricant to make Installation Easier. The End of a Drill Bit that is Slightly Small than the Seat can be Use as an Insertion Tool.
>>Wear Gloves or Use a Rag when Handling the Sharpened End of the Drill Bit. Remove Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed.
>>If you are Able to Remove and Disassemble the Carburetor and Keep the Gaskets Intact, then Usually these Gaskets can be Reused. Even the O-Ring Around the Bowl can be Reused if it is Not Broken. The Only Parts you May Need to Replace is the Float Needle Valve (and Seat if Applicable).
>>The Float Needle Usually is Not Replaced Unless it is Not Operating Properly (the gas flow not shutting off and the carburetor is Flooding). Do Not Remove the Main Nozzle. This is a Pressed Fit and Removal is Not Required for Cleaning. Soaking and Blowing the Carburetor Out After Soaking will Clean the Nozzle.
>>Once Disassembled, then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts.
>>Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air.
>>***(Do Not Use High Pressure Air for the Zama Carburetors, they have Check Valves for the Primer and these are Usually Blown Out of the Carburetor if Not Careful. Allow the Zama Carburetor to Set on a Drip Pan and Dry)***.
>>****All the Carburetor Adjustments are the Same for Lawn Mower and Trimmers. There are Several Location for the Air Mixture Screws. The Idle Air Mixture Screws are Usually Located at the Top of the Carburetor Bowl and the Top of the Carburetor Body.****
>>If the Main Air and Idle Air Mixture Screws are Side by Side on the Side of the Carburetor, then the Idle Air is Nearest the Engine. The Main Jet Air Mixture Screw is Located in the Bottom of the Carburetor Bowl or Beside the Idle Air Screw on the Side of the Carburetor Body.
>>Some of the Older Model Carburetors have the Main Jet Mixture Screw Straight in from the Top of the Carburetor Body (this is Rare anymore). If you have Cleaned the Carburetor (Disassembled and Soaked Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air and Install a New Kit if Required. Now Setting the Air Mixture Screws:
>>****Turn the Idle Air and Main Air Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Holding the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine. Turn the Main Air Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. Occasionally you May have to Turn this Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs. Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required. Now Set the Idle Air Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.****
>>If This Carburetor has a Single Air Adjustment (Except Tank Mounted 9200 and 100900 Engine Model Carburetors), Use the Section Above that Pertains to Full Throttle RPM Air Mixture Screw and then Adjust the Screw if Required to Eliminate Any Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle.
>>For the 9200 Model Tank Mounted Carburetor Adjust the Air Mixture Screw Full In, then Reverse 1 1/2 Turns. Set the Throttle Lever to Full Throttle and Start the Engine.
>>Now Carefully Use 1 Finger and Open the Throttle Plate and Over Rev the Engine Slightly. If the Engine Over Revs and Does Not Struggle to Over Rev, then the Carburetor is Set. If the Engine Struggles to Over Rev, then Turn the Adjustment Screw In 1/4 Turn and Repeat the Over Rev Test.
>>If you Adjust to 1/2 Turns In and the Engine Still Struggles to Over Rev, then Return the Adjustment Screw to 1 1/2 Turns Out from Snug and Turn the Screw Out 1/4 Turn. Do the Over Rev Test. Continue this Process Until you have the Engine Over Revving without Struggle.
>>By Adjusting the Carburetor on this Style Carburetor Until the Engine Over Revs without Struggle, you have Adjusted the Air Mixture to the Best Possible Setting.
>>This file was Intended to Give you the Basic Carburetor Cleaning Instructions and May Not Reflect Your Carburetor Components.
>>If you have Questions, Please Ask. The links above Provide Good Directions on Cleaning the Carburetor. Make sure you use an Compressed Air to Blow through all the Carburetor Passages to make sure they are Clear.
>>1- http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/lmfaq/lmclctc.htm
>>2- http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf .
>>Please, Do Not Hesitate, If you Hit a Snag, if I Missed Something or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
>>PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
